The Black Cat

This time of year is always rough, my work nearly triples and it always hurts my ability to post on the blog. At first, I thought it best to let it go and post a "please forgive my absence in this busy time" sort of post. However, the more a I thought about it, the more I realized that we are beyond that, and I believe my readers would enjoy knowing what i'm drinking in the little free time I have--even if it's not the most well thought out post to the blog.

And so, here it is and I hope you enjoy, because it's totally unadulterated and exactly what's on my mind as I pull wines from my cellar at a very busy time…

The Black Cat

For years I've wondered why I haven't seen any professional tasting notes on EMH Black Cat. Are they too small? Do they refuse to submit samples? I don't know. What I do know is that this tiny wine was one of my most prized discoveries from a trip I took to Napa a few years ago. Out of all the wineries that I visited, there were only three lists that I bought wines from, and this was one of them. Coming from a single acre vineyard in Calistoga, which makes for a great study through the vintages, since it's always from the same small parcel. Tonight I revisited the 2005, and it was drop--dead--gorgeous!

2005 EMH Cabernet Sauvignon Black Cat - The nose was refined yet intense with cherry cola, minty herbs, spice, rose-infused dark chocolate and hints of sweetened lavender. On the palate, it was plush and weighty but with great finesse and brisk acidity. Never overwhelming or overdone, instead perfectly balanced. Ripe black fruit, currant, cola and holiday spice danced on the palate and gave way to juicy cherry, which lasted through the long finish. This wine has remained one of my favorites from Black Cat and is in a great place right now. (93 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

California Dreamin'

A Pride Vineyard

Two years ago, a trip to Napa and Sonoma Valleys changed the way I looked at Californian wine. Being a wine drinker who started and fell in love with Italy, I went to California with an open mind but a lingering thought that I would be disappointed. However, I was far from disappointed, as I came to realize that the wine most people thought of as Californian was far from what the passionate and pioneering producers were making. Wineries such as Pride, Trespass, EMH, Larkmead, Alpha Omega and a host of others successfully showed me that there are juicy, structured and elegant wines of depth and nuance to be found in California.

That trip also resulted in me signing up for a number of lists and making a number of purchases of the bottles I enjoyed. I figured it was about time to check in on some of the wines that thrilled me two years ago, as well as some recent releases from those wineries. To put it mildly, I was happily impressed. If you’re looking to delve into California, this list is certainly a great place to start. None of these are cheap; however, they are all worth their tariff.

If there's one significant impression that I walk away from with this tasting with, its that I need to plan another tasting trip to California in the near future.

On to the wines:

2009 Larkmead Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc Lillie B4 Block – On the nose, this wine wowed me with pear and peach, wet stone, a spritz of lime, field grasses and sour clotted cream. On the palate, it was incredibly elegant and soft but with an underlying structure and a core of vibrant acidity that made the mouth water in preparation for the flavors of peach, honeydew and minerals that followed. As this wine finished, a lovely note of pineapple lingered for what seemed to be a full minute. (93 points) Larkmead Website

2009 Massican Gemina – The Gemina had filled out even more since I last tasted it. The nose showed almond, citrus fruit and honeysuckle with white flowers tempting you to taste, and as time passed, I also found a layer of mineral and stone which added a good amount of depth to the wine. On the palate, it was a rich yet refined, medium bodied wine showing honeydew melon, buttery lemon and grapefruit, which lasted into its long finish. (92 points) Massican Website (Also look out for a full review of Massican's 2010 lineup coming soon!)

2008 A.P. Vin Pinot Noir Rancho Ontiveros Vineyard – The nose showed wild herbs, raspberry and strawberry with allspice and hints of wood shop. On the palate, I found cherry with orange rind and sweet spice. The finish was shorter than expected and showed a bit more alcohol than I’d like, but with time in decanter the edges rounded out and left me with an overall good impression of this wine. (90 points) A.P. Vin Website

2008 Larkmead Vineyards Firebelle – The nose showed black currant, cherry liquor, spice, brown sugar and a hint of fresh-turned soil. On the palate, it was velvety smooth and luxuriant with blackberry jam, cherry wood and spice. The finish was exceptionally long with blackberry and currant fruit, yet it was fresh and begging for another sip. (94 points) Larkmead Website

2006 Pride Mountain Vineyards Merlot – The nose showed blueberry and blackberry with molasses, a hint of vanilla and, with air in the glass, sweet confectionary spices. On the palate, it was warm and seductive with a full-balanced body, showing black cherry, cinnamon and spice with dark chocolate and cola leading into the long finish. Pride successfully balanced elegance and structure in this excellent bottle of Merlot. (92 points) Pride Mountain Vineyards Website

2005 Trespass Cabernet Sauvignon Estate Grown – When this bottle was first opened the nose showed strawberry, sour berries, candied sugar and a hint of bell pepper. However, over the course of three hours, it came to life, as the pepper faded back to reveal notes of earth, leather and hints of barnyard. On the palate, it was beautifully structured and surprisingly feminine, as an initial burst of acidity turned soft as velvet on the tongue with flavors of black currant, herbs and a hint of salinity. The finish was long with notes of blackberry jam. (93 points) Trespass Vineyards Website

2006 Trespass Rendezvous – The nose showed ripe raspberry jam, molasses, pepper, spice cookie and a hint of undergrowth. On the palate, I found blueberry and dark chocolate with violet candies and a plush velvety mouthfeel. The finish was long with wild berries and cider mulling spices. (92 points) Trespass Vineyards Website

2006 EMH Cabernet Sauvignon Black Cat – The 2006 EMH vineyards, Black Cat, was on a whole new level from my previous tasting. Almost a year has passed, and this dark beauty has really come out of its shell. Upon pouring, the aromatics leapt from the glass and filled the room with a bouquet of sweet floral notes and dark fruits. With a swirl in the glass, I found blackberry, cherry and anise with notes of pepper and sage. The palate showed rich spicy black currant, cinnamon gram cracker and dark chocolate, yet also showed wonderful vibrancy and finesse. The finish went on and on for over a minute with a seductive mix of clove, cinnamon, star anise and cherry. (93 points) EMH Vineyards Website

2005 Cliff Lede Cabernet Sauvignon Stags Leap District – The nose showed black currant, confectioners sugar, spice and a hint of green pepper. On the full-bodied palate, I found sweet raspberry jam and cola, which turned to sour cherry with an herbal quality. The finish showed dark red fruits which turned slightly sour as it faded away. (92 points) Cliff Lede Vineyards Website

2004 Robert Mondavi Winery Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve – The nose showed black currant, cinnamon stick, nutmeg, rosemary, dark brown sugar and whiffs of vanilla. On the palate, I found black cherry, dark chocolate and cola with zesty acidity and beautiful structure. The finish went on and on for over a minute. This wine was massive yet fresh and will easily improve for many years to come. (94 points) Robert Mondavi Website

2007 Sbragia Family Zinfandel Italo's Vineyard – The color of the 2007 Sbragia Family Zinfandel Italo's Vineyard, showed a brilliant ruby red. The nose opened fresh, showing a mix of wild berries, primarily blue but ever-changing with each sniff. A floral component came forward with time, along with a hint of undergrowth, sweet caramel and coffee bean, which added masses of depth. On the full, rich palate, I found candied blackberry and cola, playing a sweet & sour act and carrying this wine’s 14.5% alcohol flawlessly. The finish was fresh and long, showing dried cherries. (90 points) Sbragia Family Vineyards Website

2007 Ridge Geyserville – A beautiful display of rich blackberry fruit, dark chocolate and earthy slate dust. The palate was like velvet yet structured with dark chocolate-covered cherries and cedar. The wine showed remarkable balance and a gorgeous core of well-defined fruit. The finish was long with cherries and dark chocolate. Yum! (91 points) Ridge VIneyards Website

2006 Neyers Syrah Old Lakeville Road – The nose showed wild berries and cherry with undergrowth, dried herbs, and air-dried meats. On the palate, this wine showed smooth and velvety with dark fruits, spicy cinnamon and earth. The medium finish was rich, yet fresh. (91 points) Neyers Vineyards Website

2006 Black Cat, out of its shell, out of this world.

After last week’s article, “A black cat, crossing your path, is not always bad luck.” I was asked by Merrill Lindquist of EMH Vineyards to re-taste the 2006 vintage. Since my tasting notes of the 2006 were from my visit to Napa in the summer of 2009, I felt it was a very fair request and Merrill assured me that this wine had really started to show its potential. Let me just say that I’m glad I took her up on this challenge!

The 2006 EMH vineyards, Black Cat, was on a whole new level from my previous tasting. Almost a year has passed, and this dark beauty has really come out of its shell. Upon pouring, the aromatics leapt from the glass and filled the room with a bouquet of sweet floral notes and dark fruits. With a swirl in the glass I found blackberry, cherry and anise with notes of pepper and sage. The palate showed rich spicy black currant, cinnamon gram cracker and dark chocolate, yet also showed wonderful vibrancy and finesse. The finish went on and on for over a minute with a seductive mix of clove, cinnamon, star anise and cherry. I am impressed and happy to upgrade my score to 93+ points!

Not only is this a treat to drink but it held up to a plate of Bucatini all'Amatriciana, which is no easy task with this traditional Italian pasta dish that has a lion’s share of flavor and spice.

A Black Cat, crossing your path, is not always bad luck.

Last summer, this lover of Italian wine ventured to Napa Valley in search of what his peers declared the best wineries to visit. I didn’t take this task lightly as I polled a number of message boards and trusted friends to come up with a list of the “not to be missed” wineries in Napa Valley. What a trip it was, as I tasted with wine makers, took in the beautiful landscapes and toured the vast vineyards of both giants and boutiques on my quest to understand Napa and all it had to offer.

However, there was one experience on this trip which truly stood out and remains, to this day, one of my most memorable tastings. It was my visit with Merrill Lindquist of EMH Vineyards, makers of “Black Cat” cabernet sauvignon.

Black Cat is the culmination of all the things I love about wine. For one, I want a wine that gives me a sense of place. I want the earth and the sky and the world that surrounds the vines to be somehow transcended into the bottle. Each vintage of Black Cat has given me just that. I can almost imagine that I’m back in Calistoga with a dry summer breeze blowing, a glass of wine in hand and a bowl of fresh picked peaches on the table. With each sip of wine showing that, vintage after vintage, the same telltale qualities of vineyard and place shine through. Next, I want to feel that the winery has a true connection to what’s in the bottle, that there’s a sense of love that goes into the farming of the vines and production of the wine. Imagine, if you will, that the vineyard is literally a step off the owner’s porch. She wakes to them in the morning and tends to them throughout the year. Lastly, I want the best of both worlds. Big, expressive wines that seduce the senses yet glide across the palate with finesse and leave a refreshing layer of fruit behind, wines that can stand on their own but are also a perfect complement to what is served at the dinner table. As my notes will show, Black Cat is all that.

I strongly urge you to seek these wines out. Granted, they are not cheap nor are they daily drinkers, however they are relative values when you consider the prices paid for boutique cabernet sauvignon in Napa Valley. You could pay $100 and up for any number of cult cabernets that will simply give you the status quo and mildly impress your guests and your palate. Or you could check in on Black Cat and find out what it takes to make the list of wines that fill my cellar.

The Notes: (I'm very happy to be able to provide notes on four consecutive vintages)

Black Cat 2004 (94 points)
The color shows a dark red, almost purple color. The first sniff shows a dark shroud of black currant followed by plum sauce, chocolate and holiday spices with a hint of undergrowth adding a yin to this wine’s fruity yang. The palate shows a full expansive layer of fruit that’s kept in check by vibrant acidity and shows blackberry jam, orange peel and cedar as this cabernet plays a sweet and sour act on the mid-palate. The finish is long with blackberry fruit and still shows a bit of fine tannin that promises life for many years to come. Gorgeous.

Black Cat 2005 (93 points)
This was opened and decanted for two hours before the first glass. The color was dark red, almost purple. The nose showed intense black cherry and licorice, a bit like port but with a creamy milk chocolate that made this intoxicating to smell alone. On the palate the performance continued with an initial rush of black current that was followed by wild red berries, sage, mint and clove on the mid-palate. This cabernet showed wonderful acidity yet was soft with its velvety tannic structure still showing just a bit. The finish was long with black currant. A great performance.

Black Cat 2006 (90 points) (Notes from my visit to EMH July, 2009)
This took the elegance of the 2005 but sheathed it in a cloak of dark, brooding fruit. The nose was full of potpourri, cranberry sauce, cocoa powder and a bit of vanilla. The 2006 was the most closed of the three, but all the ingredients are there for this bottle to turn into a beauty with a little age. I can’t wait to get this bottle in my home and watch it open up over the course of a day.

Looking back on these notes I'm happy to say that I called it right. Check out the most recent tasting notes on the 2006 Black Cat, from 90 points to an easy 93+!

Black Cat 2007 (93 points) (Notes from my visit to EMH July, 2009)
This confirmed what everyone in Napa seemed to be talking about, and that’s the sheer vibrancy of the 2007 cabernets. This bottle will certainly have a long life but, like many of the 2007s, it’s so hard to not drink it now. On the nose, I found sour cherry, confectioners sugar and spice. On the palate, it was refreshing and mouth filling with rich dark fruit complemented by balanced acidity. This is a fun and showy cabernet that should turn some heads at future dinners.



EMH Vineyards website


To find Black Cat on Wine-Searcher, click here!