Worth The Hunt: Dolcetto di Dogliani

An article by: Eric Guido

Dolcetto grapes on the vine, looking good enough
to eat.

There is a lot to love about the wines of Piedmont. It seems that there is something for everyone and a wine to pair with every course of the meal. When I started down this road of wine appreciation, Barolo was one of the first wines I grew to truly adore. I was drawn to its power, which seemed to perfectly coexist with its gracefulness and elegance. As I worked to understand this wine and the grape (Nebbiolo), which it is made from, I also began to read about the people and the place from which it came from. I experimented and fell in love with the cuisine. I think back to large tasting menus I created, centered on Piedmontese edibles. Then there was the wine and the multiple varieties from the region. Almost anyone who knows Barolo will also be familiar with Barbera. It's also not a stretch to see Arneis at your local wine shop. However, one grape that still doesn't receive the attention it deserves is Dolcetto.

A parmigiano polenta topped with wild mushrooms,
is one of my favorite Dolcetto pairings.

Dolcetto was, and in many ways still is, the everyday wine of Piedmont, being grown throughout the region. In many cases Dolcetto fills the vineyard areas where Nebbiolo—or, these day, even Barbera--won't thrive. It can be easily made into a young and remarkably fresh daily drinker. However, there is also a tannic backbone, allowing some producers to create a more serious expression, with short-term ageability. It pairs beautifully with a large array of foods, from starters to entrees of hearty stew, game, red meat, pasta and almost anything with mushrooms. The fruit leans to the darker spectrum with ripe blackberry, hints of herbs, minerals and with a bitter twang, yet doesn't take very well to new oak. The result is a beautiful varietal wine of character. Frankly, it's one of my favorite wines for winter.

The Pecchenino Farm in Dogliani 

However, there is one more factor to keep in mind. As I mentioned, Dolcetto is grown throughout the region, but in many places it sits second or third place to the bigger wines that can demand a higher price. A Dolcetto d'Alba or d'Asti can be great, and there are many that I love, but it wasn't until I began to explore the neighboring areas, some of which specialize in Dolcetto (such as Dogliani), that I truly began to understand what Dolcetto is capable of. In Dogliani, Dolcetto sits second to none. Here, Dolcetto has been produced for hundreds of years, and now by artisinal wine makers willing to give it the attention it deserves, while the vines enjoy the best vineyards and exposures that the region has to offer. The wines are intense and expressive, robust, elegant and often fruit-forward. Dolcetto Dogliani are incredibly food-friendly and made in both easy to understand and intense, deep styles. They are absolutely worth searching for and should fill the shelves of your local wine shop.

Below, you’ll find my tasting notes from a number of the best producers’ current releases from the region. This is in no way the end all list, but it’s a great place to start. I urge you to give them a try and to add these incredible, unique wines to your arsenal--and try paring them with some of your favorite foods. You will not be disappointed.

On to the wines:

2010 Pecchenino Dogliani Bricco Botti – This was explosive on the nose, showing intense ripe blackberry, sandy mineral tones and spice. On the palate, it was rich yet balanced with blackberry, hints of bitters and black licorice. Fine tannin showed itself throughout the finish, giving this even more depth and resulting in a long and satisfying experience. (94 points) avg. cost $36 Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2011 Marziano Abbona Dolcetto di Dogliani Papa Celso – The nose was rich, exciting and somehow autumnal, showing blackberry and spice, violet floral notes and undergrowth. On the palate, tart blackberry and herbs filled the senses in a juicy, soft textured effort. The finish was long and saturating with herb infused black fruits. Beautiful. (92+ points) avg. cost $23 Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2011 Poderi Luigi Einaudi Dolcetto di Dogliani - The nose was intense and ripe yet wonderfully fresh, showing dark cherry, blackberry, herbal hints, chalk dust and floral undergrowth. On the palate, it was rich with saturating dark fruit spreading across all of the senses, followed by a tug of tannin, which lasted into the finish. It's a food wine, for sure, yet just as satisfying to enjoy a glass on its own. (92 points) avg. cost $18 Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2012 Pecchenino Dolcetto di Dogliani San Luigi – A fresh yet energetic expression of blackberry jam, toast (not oak) and hints of wild herbs. On the palate, it showed ripe, juicy blackberry and herbs, which lasted through the mouthwatering finish. This was easy drinking, yet pure beauty in simplicity. (91 points) avg. cost $15 Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2011 Gillardi Dolcetto di Dogliani Cursalet - The nose showed blackberry, floral notes, and herbs with a fresh airiness that imparted a lifting note to the blackberry fruit. On the palate, it was rich with juicy dark fruits and a hint of tannic heft, which gripped the senses, ending in a refreshing, dark fruity finish. This was everything I wanted in a Dolcetto. (90 points) avg. cost $18 Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2011 Francesco Boschis Dolcetto di Dogliani Vigna Dei Prey - The nose showed blackberry jam, herbs, lifting menthol-laced floral notes, and hints of peppery spice. On the palate, it was acid-driven with focused dark fruits and a mineral core. The finish showed drying tannin with tart blackberry and citrus notes. (89 points) avg. cost $21 Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

Dolcetto: A Perfect Anyday Wine

I have something of a secret affection for Dolcetto. It started almost as far back as my love for Barolo. Let’s face it; we can’t drink Barolo everyday, although I know some people who try. Dolcetto, which translates to Little Sweet One, is for the most part, an easy drinking wine from Piedmont, Italy. However, it’s hardly ever sweet and if you know the right producers to look for, than you can find Dolcetto with amazing depth, clarity and nuance. Far from just an easy drinking wine.

Some producers use Dolcetto as a means to turn a quick buck with affordable juice that can be enjoyed and sold while their Barolo ages toward release. Other’s, like many on this list, look at it as it’s own beautiful expression of terroir. Personally, I believe it is the ultimate weeknight spring or summer wine. Dolcetto goes wonderfully with food, especially sausage, lamb, burgers and pizza. And on a very hot day, try one at cellar temperature (55 degrees) for a real treat. I obviously couldn’t include every wine I admire, but what follows are some of the best Dolcetto I’ve had this year.

Marziano Abbona

Most of the Dolcetto you'll find stateside will come from Alba. However, the Dolcetto from Dogliani is another animal all together. In Alba, Dolcetto vines are grown in the poorest sections of Barolo vineyards but in Dogliani, Dolcetto is king. With a focus on quality, optimal vineyard locations and older vines (in this case 47 -60 years old), you'll find much more powerful and even age worthy examples here.

2009 Marziano Abbona Dolcetto di Dogliani Papa Celso - The nose was like a blackberry pie with black fruits, herbs and aromas of toasty savory pate brisse. On the palate, it was juicy with more blackberry and medicinal herbs. The finish was tight with woodsy notes. (89 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

Flavio Roddolo

Flavio Roddolo was a new name for me this year and one I will not soon forget. The wines are made "naturally" from vines that are 10 - 70 years old and have not seen chemical treatments in 40 years. Fermention is done using indigenous yeast and there is no filtering before bottling. This results in wines that show true terroir, character and depth with the potential to improve in the cellar.

2010 Flavio Roddolo Dolcetto d’Alba – The nose showed a darker and more seductive side of Dolcetto with black cherry and dark wild berries; floral perfume followed with a hint of Indian spice. On the palate it was velvety soft, but not heavy, with juicy acidity ushering in blackberry fruits and then flexing it’s structural muscle with slightly drying tannin. On the finish an attractive herbal character mixed with wild berries lingered to the close. (90 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

G.D. Vajra

Everything the house of G.D. Vajra touches, seems to turn to gold. At a recent portfolio tasting, I was floored by the consistency across the board. The Baroli are top notch, with their Bricco delle Viole being one of my top scorers each year. Their Dolcetto is no different.

2009 G.D. Vajra Dolcetto d'Alba - The nose showed focused blackberry fruit with spice, floral notes and wood tones. On the palate, this showed vibrant acidity with more blackberry and hints of citrus, leading to a clean fruity finish that provided those token Dolcetto bitters that I have grown to love. (89 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

Elio Grasso

I would be remiss not to mention the excellent Dolcetto made by Elio Grasso. It's made in a slightly rustic style that's not for everyone, but that's okay, because then there will be more for me. However, if you love Dolcetto or want to understand it, then you owe it to yourself to check it out.

2009 Elio Grasso Dolcetto d'Alba dei grassi - The nose showed ripe blackberries, with floral undergrowth and a hint of bouillon. On the palate, it was soft and enveloping in a mid-weight style with blackberries, a hint of sweet spice and a touch rustic with juicy acidity. The finish was pleasant and fresh just as a Dolcetto should be. I thoroughly enjoyed it. (89 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

Bartolo Mascarello

This is one of those Dolcetto that actually appears to need more time to come around. The house of Bartolo Mascarello needs no introduction to anyone that knows about Barolo. The style is a bit rustic but with intense purity and layers that seem to keep unfurling in the glass. As much as I enjoyed this recently, I will purposely forget a few bottles in the cellar for future enjoyment.

2010 Bartolo Mascarello Dolcetto d'Alba - The nose showed crushed blackberry, floral notes, wild herbs and earth with a rustic twist. On the palate, it was medium bodied with plush blackberry fruits and a bit of tart citrus, which coated the senses and lasted through the long finish. The wine's structure could be felt in the close as hints of tannin clung to the palate. (89 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

Domenico Clerico

Domenico Clerico goes for a richer style of Dolcetto yet somehow manages to keep it juicy and fresh. It’s a combination that I find particularly appealing on autumn and winter nights.

2010 Domenico Clerico Dolcetto Visadi Langhe - The nose was robust, showing rich black cherry, blackberry jam, dark chocolate, pepper and hint of herbs. On the palate, intense dark fruits and earthy stone were ushered in by gripping acidity, which blossomed toward the finish with a bitter twinge and hints of tannin. This was racy yet unexpected and atypical of a Dolcetto. (90 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

G.B. Burlotto

Burlotto makes some great Barolo in a traditional style. However, you’re missing out if you don’t try their entry-level wines as well. The Barbera, Freisa, Pelaverga and Dolcetto are all worth the price of admission

2009 Comm. G.B. Burlotto Dolcetto d'Alba - As I sat and sniffed around the edges of this glass, it reminded me of everything I love about Italian wine. The first impression was of blackberry jam and brioche, but with time in the glass, the slightest hint of barnyard and earth added dimensions that I had at first not noticed. It was easy on the palate, with perfect balance and flavors of wild berries and a bit of old wood. Some gravelly tannin was noticeable on the finish but it served to remind me that this wasn't just a forgettable wine from who-knows-where, this was Dolcetto from Piedmont and a truly excellent example at that. (90 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!