Year in Review: Top 10 wines of 2011

It’s that time again.  2011 is coming to a close, and the holidays are in full swing.  I’m sorting through recipes for Christmas Eve, Christmas parties and New Year’s bashes.  However, before I get too deep into things, I love to look back over the past year and my 500+ tasting notes for my top ten wines.  This isn’t a list that’s built through politicking or overthinking the subject.  Instead, these are my favorite ten wines of the year in three categories; mid-priced gems, top shelf wines and vintages wines.  You may notice that I don’t have a value wine section, but that’s because my article “Give the gift of wine for Christmas” spells out the best value wines I’ve had this year.

Looking over this list, I’m not surprised to see such a large representation made by Italian wines.  Italian wine was my first love in life, and it continues to amaze me for both quality and value.  Nowhere else can such world-class wine be had for the relative value Italian wines represent.  However, I’m also very happy to see wines from Germany, Spain and California.

Top Mid-priced Wines

Each of these bottles delivers the goods in spades, and if you compared how good they are, against how much they cost, then you’d see that each of them is a relative value.  This is the sweet spot where I find my most enjoyable drinking, because they perform beautifully, but won’t break the bank.  Give one of these to your boss for Christmas or New Year’s, and there would be no shame.

2006 Piaggia Carmignano Riserva - The nose showed ripe black cherry, herbal fruit tea, leather, and dusty potpourri.  On the palate, it was as soft as silk and flowed effortlessly across the senses.  It was structured yet elegant with unmistakable Tuscan character and flavors of black cherry juice, mixed herbs and sweet spices.  The finish lasted, showing red fruits with the slightest bitter character.  The Carmignano Riserva walks the line between sex appeal and restraint, and the result is something magical.  Give it an hour to decant, and let this beauty dazzle you. (95 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2007 Vietti Barbera d'Asti La Crena -The nose showed crushed blackberry and plum, along with a hint of undergrowth and a dark toasty note.  On the palate, a rich, velvety wave of dark fruits swept across the senses with bitter dark chocolate. The intense fruit and zesty acidity cloaked this wine’s imposing structure, which was most noticeable on the long mouth-puckering finish. I am eager to see what this wine will mature into. (94 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2009 Ridge Zinfandel Pagani Ranch - The nose was massive, as aromas of wild berries, dry coco, vanilla, ginger spice and savory notes filled the senses.  On the palate, it was medium to full-bodied with amazing focus to its intense red berry fruit and spice.  The masses of fruit slowly gave way to show this wine’s structure and balance.  The finish was long and clinging to the palate, yet ultimately refreshing as the tannins faded away.  I seriously enjoyed this structured Zinfandel and am very happy to have more in my cellar, as I can imagine that it will get even better with time. (93 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2009 Peter Lauer Ayler Kupp Riesling Senior Faß 6 - The nose showed lime, green apple, white flowers and wet rocks.  It was simple yet perfectly enjoyable.  However, on the palate, this wine came to life, with rich and concentrated grapefruit, sweet lemon curd, which then turned to acid, minerals and stone--but then went back to sweetness into the long citrus finish.  This wine kept me guessing what each new sip would reveal.  It was amazingly fresh and enjoyable. (93 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

Top Shelf Wines

Sometimes the occasion calls for the best wines, and the ones listed below are sure to please.  These are wines that some may refer to as “collectable.”  However, I prefer to call them highly drinkable.  These are bottles that will blow away the competition and leave no survivors.  They may cost a pretty penny, but they’re worth every red cent.

2006 Castello di Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva Il Poggio - The 2006 Il Poggio was Tuscany personified, as aromas of animal musk, spice, wild berries and forest notes wafted up from the glass.  On the palate, this wine showed wild red berries and autumnal notes with a mouth-feel of pure silk.  The finish was long in sour berry and spice. (94 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2007 Arnaldo-Caprai Sagrantino di Montefalco 25 Anni - On the nose, this wine was a monster with raspberry, holiday spices and dark forest notes.  It verged on sweet, but something animal about this Sagrantino pulled it back to reality.  On the palate, a massive wave of concentration was turned fresh by vibrant acidity, as blackberry jam, pomegranate, cinnamon and herbs washed across the tongue like silk.  The finish showed this wine’s intimidating structure, as velvety tannin coated the mouth.  The Arnaldo Caprai 25 Anni is highly enjoyable now and will likely age into something magical. (96 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2001 Tommaso Bussola Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Tb - At first, the nose showed black cherries with dark chocolate and tobacco; however, as it opened up in the glass, aromas of herbs and seared meat in a buttery crust filled the nose.  It was all at once a sweet and savory intoxicating bouquet.  On the palate, it was full with a hint of sweetness, as macerated cherry, rum raisin and Christmas spice lingered into a long and pleasing finish.  This may be made in a rich and sweet style, but it still manages to glide effortlessly across the palate with perfect balance and a graceful finish. (95 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

Top Vintage Wines

If you’re anything like me, then it’s the older vintage wines that truly make cellaring wine worthwhile.  Don’t get me wrong; I love young wines, but if there were a choice, I’d grab a 20+-year-old Barolo any day.  These are all wines older than ten years that truly made me stop and take notice in 2011.

1990 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Riserva Collina Rionda - This wine was everything I ever wanted in a glass of Barolo.  It was sweet yet sour, earthy yet fruity and rich yet with razor-like focus.  The nose showed masses of ripe red berries with hot dried spices, gravelly moist earth, mushroom and hints of green stems.  On the palate, this showed silky, sweet, ripe strawberry, yet it also had a savory warmth, full of earth, menthol and leather strap on a beautifully structured frame.  It was amazing how young the Collina Rionda seemed as silky tannin washed across the palate and soothed me into a long, seductive finish that begged for the next sip. (98 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

1990 Bodegas Vega-Sicilia Ribera del Duero Valbuena 5° - The 1990 Vega-Sicilia wowed me with its rich yet elegant personality.  The nose showed cherry preserves and cranberry with hints of clove, vanilla and burnt sugar.  However, with how rich and young the nose seemed, there was an underlying earthiness and hint of musky animal fur that truly kept it interesting.  On the palate, it was elegant, with a velvety feel on the tongue as flavors of rich red then black fruits and dusty spices assaulted the senses.  The finish was long and turned from juicy to sour as the fruit faded away. (96 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2000 Mastroberardino Taurasi Radici Riserva - The nose showed beautifully with ripe strawberry and potpourri; yet as the wine sat in the glass, it turned darker and fuller with notes of candle wax, earth, mushrooms and moist fall leaves.  On the palate, this wine was eloquent and soft at first but turned more tannic into the finish.  The senses were wrapped with penetrating black fruit, followed by minerals and a taste of older wood, which gave it a bit of a rustic feel.  The finish was laden with intense cranberry fruit, giving it a really nice sendoff.  This wine is just starting to show its age, yet still has many more years to go before its structure truly softens. (95 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

Cape May: The Victorian vacation destination

Whether it be romance, summer fun, or a lover of anything Victorian, Cape May has something for everyone, and what was once a sleepy Victorian summer retreat has now become a meca for good food and wine in south Jersey.

It was about ten years ago that I was taken to Cape May for the first time. What truly made the biggest impression on me during that trip was the corkage policy at the majority of restaurants. Or should I say the lack of, or need for, corkage. You see, the majority of restaurants in Cape May allow you to bring your own wine, free of charge. This guarantees a large amount of value for anyone who’s serious about the wine they love. Why buy a $150 bottle off of a wine list when you could simply bring the same bottle having only paid $60 at retail? However, don’t let this deter you from checking out some of the wine lists around Cape May, as I found out on this trip, where one establishment especially had a list that made me smile ear to ear.

Cape May simply has everything that I want from a vacation. Imagine if you will, you start your morning by waking up at your bed & breakfast or hotel. The breakfast is warming, prepared by your innkeeper. If you choose to make conversation with the other guests, it’s completely acceptable; however, if you’d like to keep to yourself, no one would mind. You have a cup of coffee on the front veranda as you make plans for your day.

Throughout the early morning into the afternoon, you could find yourself on a jet ski, a whale watch, or just lying out on the beach soaking up the sun. The evening finds you at one of many fine restaurants or on a sunset cruise followed by a carriage ride through the historic streets. The night ends sitting on the veranda with a glass of wine in hand, the sounds of the surf and a gentle sea air.

Words can’t describe the level of utter satisfaction I felt at the end of each day. I hope that my recommendations below will help you find Cape May as enjoyable as I did.

Mainstay Inn

What was once a gambling hall and bordello is now one of the premier bed & breakfasts in Cape May. The story goes that the rail-less veranda and high windows were designed to allow patrons to escape easily in case of a police raid. Well, this may have once been a bordello, but today it is the epitome of Victorian style.

Entering through the front door, you are whisked away to another world where period-styled furniture, lighting and art adorn the massive hall and public rooms surrounding you. William Morris printed wallpaper, Victorian oddities and period instruments can be found throughout the house.

The spacious guest rooms are just as ornate and extremely private. You become lost in this staged Victorian world, and you could almost convince yourself that the house and staff are yours to command. Being only one street away from the beach, you can hear the waves on a quiet night and indulge in the sea air wafting through the lace curtains. From the second floor landing, you can climb a ladder to a private perch at the top of the house, where you can watch the surf, curl up with a novel or observe the entire town.

The surrounding gardens are perfectly manicured with a large assortment of flora. Benches, statues and winding paths lead you around this secret garden as you sip a cup of fresh morning coffee or enjoy an afternoon cup of tea. Breakfast is taken on their large veranda while you immerses in nature. Seriously, you could become lost enjoying the all the Mainstay has to offer.

Website: The Mainstay Inn

Dining Out:

Lucky Bones

If it’s a relaxed atmosphere, good food and cold beer that you crave, then Lucky Bones is the place for you. Lucky Bones can be seen just as you cross the bridge into Cape May. It’s a locals’ destination with a down-to-earth feel, extensive menu and extremely friendly staff. If I was a local, I could easily see myself making my stop at Lucky Bones a weekly ritual after a hard day of work.


Website: Lucky Bones

The Carriage house

What would a Victorian seaside town be without a Victorian tea party? Sound a little corny? I beg to differ. An afternoon sipping tea (iced tea is available) while enjoying course after course of bite-size delicacies can be the perfect remedy to distress from the day-to-day grind.

Also worth mentioning, is the tour of the Emlem Physick Estate, on the same property as the Carriage House. The Physick Estate is basically a house tour of a true Victorian mansion. This tour takes you through the daily life of a well-to-do Victorian family as well as their servants, all while touring a gorgeous Victorian home.

Website: Mid-Atlantic Center for the arts & humanities

The Ebbitt Room

The Ebbitt Room was the unfortunate experience of the trip. The food was good but not great, and the menu was confusing, as was the staff. This was a rare occasion where I regretted opting for the tasting menu with paired wines. The wines by the glass left much to be desired and the timing of the courses was horrible. It’s sad that this was one of my favorites from the previous year’s trip. I may give them another chance in the future, but for the first time visitor to Cape May, there are so many great restaurants to explore, and so I'd stay away from the Ebbitt Room for a while.

Website: The Ebbitt Room

Washington Inn

This is one place where I didn’t want to bring my own bottle. Word on the street was that Washington Inn had a great wine list, but what they didn’t explain is that they also had a cellar full of gems that were moderately priced. This night, I bought a bottle off the list, a 2000 Monsanto Chianti Classico, Il Poggio. A bottle that that was marked up to only $20 above street value.

As for the food, well, I didn’t go in expecting the best since it seemed like an after thought behind the wine list, but the food was incredible. Or maybe that’s not even saying enough. Basically, I went to the Washington Inn expecting a good meal, but what I left with was the best meal I’d had while in Cape May.

Anyone who follows my work knows that I find crab cakes to be one of the best representations of a restaurant’s quality. I find it to be a standard to which I can judge the commitment to quality, freshness and imagination. The Washington Inn succeeded on every level with a perfectly fresh, crisp and seasoned example. Add to that the absolutely amazing red pepper cream sauce that adorned the plate and you have a dish that screamed indulgence.

The pork chop, which was cooked in a wood-burning stove, was perfectly seasoned with a crispy slice of bacon, polenta, sauté spinach and a rich, smoky sauce beneath. I don’t ever remember having pork from a wood stove done this well. It was all at once succulent, smoky, salty and sweet, and with a sprig of rosemary that truly drove my senses to the brink of satisfaction.

The grilled fillet with sweet onions, asparagus, and blue cheese was outstanding. This dish was such a delight with its smoky sweet aromas that were brought home with a whiff of fresh sage. It was silky smooth on the palate with that melt-in-your-mouth character that a perfectly medium rare can provide you with. The blue cheese gave a total woodsy funk and a bit of sour bite to the smoky sweetness. This plate made it to my top five of steaks I’ve ever eaten.

2000 Castello di Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva Il Poggio - This showed cherry, saw dust and animal musk with potpourri and cinnamon, crushed fall leaves and a hint of olive on the nose. The palate was just as interesting as the nose, as flavors of strawberry, dried cherry, clove and wood pencil washed across it. All of this was kept lively and fresh by a vibrant acidity, which led to a long red fruit finish with silky tannin. This wine is drinking beautifully now and, although I don’t see this as being an Il poggio for the ages, I’d say it has an easy decade ahead of fine drinking and possibly more.

Website: Washington Inn

Looking to do some wine tasting?

Turdo Vineyards & Winery

Turdo Vineyards & Winery is a husband-and-wife team run from vineyards and a tasting room built around their home. The vines are still relatively young and space restrictive; however, the passion is there and the potential for making good wine is absolute. I was so pleasantly surprised to find some of my favorite Italian varietals being grown so close to home. Turdo is absolutely worth a visit and the tasting is quite enjoyable.

Following are some wines that this establishment offers, along with my notes:

2008 Turdo Vineyards Pinot Noir Turis – The nose showed chalk, green stems and red fruit with a bit of a medicinal aroma. On the palate, I found sour raspberry, young strawberries and a clean, fresh finish.

2008 Turdo Persara (blend of cabernet, merlot, syrah and sangiovese)– The nose showed dark fruits, some blackberry and undergrowth. On the palate, this showed blackberries with citrus rind and cinnamon with a full, yet fresh performance. The finish continued with blackberry and citrus.

2009 Turdo Vineyards Barbera Turis – This showed a vibrant red color in the glass with aromas of cherry and underbrush. On the palate, I found big red fruits and fresh acidity. However, the finish was marked by a metallic aftertaste. It's easy going, unpretentious and would have rated higher if not for the finish.

2008 Turdo Vineyards Sangiovese Turis – An interesting nose of strawberry, cedar and underbrush. The palate showed a soft full body with cherry fruit and new leather, but the finish is quite dry and revealed this wine’s tannic structure. I'm interested to see what a year in my cellar might do to it.

2008 Turdo Vineyards Nebbiolo Turis - This showed red fruit and spice on the nose. On the palate, I found strawberry, blueberry and some cedar on a full-bodied frame, yet the wine managed to stay lively due to a well-balanced dose of acidity. The finish was of medium length with blackberry showing.

Website: Turdo Vineyards & Winery

Also be sure to visit: Cape May Whale Watch for an amazing cruise into the Atlantic in search of whales and dolphins... but bring your sea legs.

Chianti Classico for tonight... Or for the ages.

Do you love Chianti? I think we've all been there. It's probably the most purchased Italian red by the average consumer, but sooner or later you begin to realize that not all Chianti is created equal. In fact, once you realize the heights that can be reached in Chianti, you can never go back. What's more, a well made Chianti from a good vintage, can be aged and the results can be amazing.

Let me introduce you to Castello di Monsanto. A producer of some of the best "quality to price ratio" Chianti in existence. To the average consumer, a $17 bottle of Chianti Classico Riserva from Castello di Monsanto will put you on the road to understanding how good chianti can be. A warning though, if it's an overripe fruit bomb you seek, read no further. However, if it’s the very essence of the vine, earth and verve of acidity that traditional Italian wine can reach, then this will be right up your alley.

2006 Castello di Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva - This bottle is a great example of how time, exposed to air, can effect a wine. When first opened, it showed sour berries, leather, fall leaves and a hint of confectioners sugar on the nose. After two hours in the bottle, you find fig and ripe berries with cedar and undergrowth. With black cherries and wild berries on the palate, then rosemary, and a hint of cedar. The medium-long finish is juicy and fresh as it flaunts its brisk acidity and it keeps you coming back to the glass for more. (Find this wine on Wine Searcher) (average price $16.99)

As I said, these wines can age and, as a testament to this statement, I provided the note below, which discusses a bottle of the 1972 Chianti Classico Il Poggio that I recently enjoyed. In a word: captivating.

1972 Castello di Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva Il Poggio - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico (4/2/2010)
I pulled the cork to find a partially saturated bottom half that broke from the top but, luckily, I was able to remove it from the neck of the bottle. The wine was decanted, the bottle rinsed, and then poured back into the bottle where it was given one hour of air in bottle.

The bouquet is stunning and evolved over the course of another hour. When first poured this wine showed sun dried tomato, prune and a bit of ocean breeze. With time, strawberry and roses came up front with a hint of undergrowth and fall leaves. The palate was mid-weight, soft and velvety, completely resolved and drinking beautifully with fresh plum, earth and savory broth. The finish showed minerals and light strawberry fruit.

I don't see this improving but I wouldn't rush to finish my last bottle either. This may have passed its peak, but I can't imagine it being any better than it was last night. (Find this wine on Wine Searcher)

So whether you're looking for a bottle of Chianti Classico for tonight or for the ages, I urge you to try Castello di Monsanto. You might just find yourself enjoying a perfectly aged bottle of the 2006, fifteen years down the road. I assure you, you'll be thanking me then.