A Vinous Evolution: 2010 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano

By: Eric Guido

As we dig a little deeper into Tuscany and the many expressions of Sangiovese, we come to one of the most famous DOCGs in Tuscany: Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. However, as famous as the name may be, and as far back as its origins may go (789), Vino Nobile has suffered over the last few decades. The reasons are various, but one that has always seemed to make the most sense is that, for a time, the producers lost focus and became idol, selling their wine on the value of its name alone. Those days are far behind us now, yet Vino Nobile still struggles to compete with consumer dollars against Chianti Classico and Brunello, and that is a shame. This became painfully apparent when shopping for these wines, which was not as easy as you would expect, living in one of the biggest cities in the world.

However difficult they were to find, in the end, they are worth the hunt. At a tasting some three years ago, I was fortunate enough to be treated to a tasting of vintage Vino Nobile. Most were from 2001, at the time with nine years of maturity under their belts. This tasting also included a large selection of Brunello and top shelf Chianti Classico Riservas. To say that Vino Nobile held its own would be an understatement--the wines were gorgeous, and I was suddenly a believer.


What separates Vino Nobile from other Tuscan reds starts with a unique clone of Sangiovese, named Prugnolo Gentile. Characteristically, it's often described as having a slightly lower level of acidity than your typical Sangio from Chianti and softer tannins than a Brunello. This along with the gentle, rolling slopes of Montepulciano (allowing more sunlight) and sandier, more alluvial soils, which benefits growth, helps the grapes to ripen easier (a constant issue with Sangiovese). This places Vino Nobile in a category all it's own, something of a happy middle ground.

The blending rules of Vino Nobile require a minimum of 70% Sangiovese, with up to 30% other varieties permitted. Many producers today have chosen to use traditional Tuscan grapes to fill out the blend, such as Mammolo (which lends a note of violet to the bouquet), Canaiolo Nero and Colorino. However, you will find a number of wines blended with other international varieties, such as Merlot. Two years of aging are required for Vino Nobile (three for Riservas), and producers have the choice to use large botti or small barrels. What is truly exciting to me is the current trend of adding more Sangiovese and aging less in new wood. The results are wines of beautiful varietal character and purity, which showcase the engaging structure and juicy acidity of these wines.

Over the last few years, I’ve delved more and more into Vino Nobile, but nowhere does the increase in quality and changes in winemaking styles show so dramatically than in the 2010 vintage. Typically, I enjoy Vino Nobile after a year or two following release, or four to five years post-vintage; yet in 2010, there’s an open-knit feel to the structure of these wines, which plays beautifully into the mix of lush fruit and vibrant acidity. They have a “drink me now” personality, but these wines will age. Don’t let their early appeal fool you; the structure is there, but what counts even more is the balance that these wines demonstrate. I will be adding a number of these to my cellar.

On to The Wines:

2010 Boscarelli Vino Nobile di Montepulciano - The nose was floral, strong yet graceful, with a bouquet of ripe cherry, strawberry, potpourri and a sweet Tuscan dustiness. It entered the palate focused with wonderful verve, as fresh red fruits were ushered in by juicy acidity. Notes of cinnamon spice, cedar and hints of mountain herbs formed toward the close and lasted into the finish. As its flavors tapered off, fine tannin remained behind, tugging at the senses. This was enjoyable now, with energy to spare, and should improve or years to come. (92 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher! (avg. $29)

2010 Avignonesi Vino Nobile di Montepulciano - The nose showed tart cherry and black currant, with mountain herbs, minerals, dark coca and the slightest hint oak. On the palate, it was angular at first, giving more with time in the glass as it resolved into a soft yet acid-driven and vibrant expression of Sangiovese. Flavors of tart berry, savory reduction sauce and stone laden minerals flowed into the finish, as fine tannins pulled at the senses, leaving hints of espresso and cherry. (91 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher! (avg. $29)

2010 Azienda Agricola Dei Vino Nobile di Montepulciano - The nose was fruity and intense with tart cherry, cranberry, along with hints of citrus peel, herbs and cedar. On the palate, it was soft yet with enough juicy acidity to keep it engaging. Ripe red fruits with hints of cinnamon and dried herbs danced around the palate, even if a tad short; it left tart cherry and hints of spice on the finish. This wine truly dazzled me for its honest red fruits and juicy personality. It’s also a good value. (90 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher! (avg. $23)

2010 Poliziano Vino Nobile di Montepulciano - The nose was suave with masses of black cherry, dark chocolate, floral perfumes and a hint of rich strawberry jam. It entered like velvet on the palate, giving flavors of spiced cherry, cedar and mineral notes, all kept fresh by balanced acidity and a sheen of well-managed oak. The medium-long finish was dry with concentrated red fruit extracts, black licorice and a hint of dark coco. (89 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher! (avg. $26)

2010 Fattoria del Cerro Vino Nobile di Montepulciano - The nose showed candied cherry, autumnal spices, floral violet tones, undergrowth and hints of wet minerals. On the palate it was lean yet juicy with ripe red berry, cedar and espresso. The balance leaned toward acidity, making this a great pairing at the dinner table but a little hard to comprehend on its own. The finish turned dry, leaving red berry soaked tannin coating the senses. (87 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher! (avg. $19)




Related articles at The V.I.P. Table:
New found love for Vino Nobile
“The Italian Wine Masters,” Part 3 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
Producer Spotlight: Crociani

“The Italian Wine Masters,” Part 3 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano

The Italian Wine Masters is a combined effort between The Consorzi Brunello di Montalcino, Chianti Classico, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano and Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore. It’s a trade show of sorts, where industry professionals and press are invited to meet the owners and representatives of over 100 wineries from Tuscany and the Veneto, Valdobbiadene wine growing region.

Vino Nobile di Montepulciano

When studying the wines of a country as large and diverse as Italy, you sometimes find yourself prioritizing or turning a blind eye to a specific region or wine from that country. When you consider the amount of wine that comes out of Italy, the number of varietals grown (over 350), and how many variations you can find on each wine from the 20 different wine-growing regions, you start to understand my plight. I am ashamed to say that Vino Nobile di Montepulciano is one of the wines that I choose to overlook. I had tried it once and it simply didn’t impress me… now, I must say, I was a fool.

I believe my first mistake was in expecting something from the wine that would remind me more of Brunello or Chianti. My second mistake was drinking a young wine. And my last mistake was never giving it a second chance… until now.

What impressed me the most about the Vino Nobile at The Italian Wine Masters were the bottles that I sampled in the Sommeliers cellar (which is why I choose to include those notes here). These wines, after ten years of age, were beautifully structured with vibrant fruit flavors and aromas that you don’t find in most Sangiovese wines from Tuscany. Vino Nobile must be made from at least 70% Sangiovese and aged for two years prior to release. The region is located Southeast of Chianti Classico and East of Montalcino. What this all amounts to is a unique expression of what Sangiovese is capable of, in a region that truly deserves more attention.

I would highly recommend searching out the wines of any of these producers. If you must drink them young, I recommend decanting them. If you have the ability to place them in your cellar, you’ll be in store for a treat in years to come.

On to the notes:

2007 Ruffino Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Lodola Nuova – This wine showed a bit of yeast on the nose, like red fruits wrapped in baking breads. On the palate, I found it to be toasty with spiced red fruits and leather. (88 points)

2004 Carpineto Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva – The nose showed animal musk, and candied strawberry. On the palate, this wine showed focused red fruit with polished acidity and structure. It was highly enjoyable yet still tannic and could easily benefit from a few years of cellaring. (90 points)

2007 Crociani Vino Nobile di Montepulciano – The nose showed masses of raspberry, cedar, herbs and a bit of older wood. The palate was structured, but not austere, and savory with rich black cherry. The finish coated the palate with fine tannin. This wine would benefit from a few years in the cellar. (91 points)

2008 Crociani Vino Nobile di Montepulciano – The nose was slightly restrained yet still showing floral notes and ripe strawberry. On the palate, I found plum and holiday spice. The finish was firm with drying tannin. This wine may really shine with a proper decanting. (89 points)

2006 Crociani Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva – The nose showed red fruits, violets and a hint of toast. On the palate, I found a rich, full-bodied wine, with brambly red fruit and cedar. The finish was smooth and long. (91 points)

1999 Crociani Vino Nobile di Montepulciano – The nose showed dried red fruits with undergrowth, hints of green stems and pepper. On the palate, the fruits turned round and sweet as this wine strutted a fine mature structure with flavors of lush wild berries and spice. The finish was fresh and juicy. (90 points)

2001 La Ciarliana Vino Nobile di Montepulciano “Vigna Scianello” – Red berries and a hint of citrus filled out the nose of this wine, as flavors of blackberry, cinnamon and salinity assaulted the palate. It showed great structure and balance leading into a long berry fruit finish. (91 points)

1999 Salcheto Vino Nobile di Montepulciano – The nose showed green stems with sour red fruit and a floral quality. On the palate, this wine was smooth with black raspberry, mineral copper and hints of salinity. (87 points)

2001 Boscarelli Vino Nobile di Montepulciano “Il Nocio” – The nose showed plum and spicy dark fruit. On the palate, I found raspberry but not much else, as this wine faded into a pleasant fruity finish. Although, this wine wasn’t relavatory, I still found it to be enjoyable and likely a great wine for an evening meal. (89 points)

2001 Dei Vino Nobile Montepulciano Riserva “Bossona” – This showed a gorgeous floral nose of violets with crushed wild berries. On the palate, I found rich red fruit on a full structured frame with herbal tea notes and spice. This wine was mouth-filling and it slowly tapered off into a finish of red fruits and dark chocolate. (92 points)

Vintage Chianti Tasting at Tolani

Do you drink Chianti? If you answered no then I’d have to wonder what planet you’re from. What about aged Chianti? I’d be surprised if the average person has tasted Chianti with over ten years on it. Why? Well, because most people think of Chianti as an early drinking yet highly enjoyable wine with a night of pasta or pizza. However, three years ago I received an education in aged Chianti from Greg dal Piaz of www.snooth.com. On that night, the theme was Chianti Classico from 1990, and it changed the way I looked at Chianti forever.

Fast forward to October 2010 at a new restaurant on the upper west side: Tolani. After three years of experimenting with aged Chianti, the time was right for a more in-depth approach at understanding what can be achieved from these great Tuscan wines. Lucky for me, my friend Fernando Losada decided to organize a tasting centered on Sangiovese (the grape that makes Chianti, Chianti) with all bottles predating the year 2000.

With 12 bottles of the who’s who in Tuscany and eight tasters of impeccable repute, the decision was made that these wines were fabulas. What thrilled me the most was the utter level of rich, vibrant fruit and balance that was found in each glass. Even with two wines over 30 years old, we were amazed by the high level quality found from each bottle. What’s remarkable to me is that we often speak of how Italy has improved the level of quality and cleanliness in their cellars over the last decade, yet these wines showed that there were many producers that were far ahead of the curve in Tuscany.

My suggestion: search out some aged Chianti Classico from a reputable dealer, and find out for yourself. The wines below would certainly be a good place the start.

On to the notes:

1985 Boscarelli (Marchesi de Ferrari Corradi) Vino da Tavola – The nose opened up with ginger spice cookie, roasted sausage and potpourri with a mineral bass note that made this all at once savory, fruity and earthy. On the palate, I found lush black fruits that were spicy with a hint of black pepper leading to a dark soil note on the slightly tannic finish. I hope to be able to taste this again in a few years. (92 Points)

1985 Isole e Olena Chianti Classico Riserva – The nose showed dusty spiced cherry with hints of florist shop, undergrowth and a bit of old parchment. On the palate, I found tart, tight wild berry fruit and a hint of herbal tea. The finish was tight but showed this wine is still blossoming. (91 points)

1995 Stefano Farina Chianti Classico Le Bocce – The nose on this wine was immediately intriguing as it reminded me of the cooking process when making cranberry sauce. Aromas of red wild berries with a dark mulling spice quality rose up from the glass. On the palate, I found lush red fruits with a gorgeous balance of acidity verse richness, leading to a finish that was still tannic and showed a hint of anise. (91 Points)

1996 Castell’in Villa Chianti Classico – I found myself going back and forth between liking and disliking this wine as it showed incredible richness, yet had an almost dirty quality to it. The nose showed rich soil and sweet tea with red fruits and hard candies. On the palate, I found tart cherry with herbal tea, which led to a medium finish that left me with a rusty aftertaste. (85 points)

1991 Antinori Chianti Classico Riserva Badia a Passignano – On the nose I found ginger and spice with tart black fruit and a hint of charcoal and vanilla. The palate was structured and a bit restrained, with blackberry and tar. The finish was rich and long. (89 points)

1990 Villa di Vetrice Chianti Rufina Riserva (corked) – Too bad this bottle was corked because you could sense the quality that was fighting to stay in front of the mildew-like aroma the crept threw. Otherwise, I found a rich, spicy expression of dark fruit on the nose. On the palate, I found dark fruits and beef broth leading to a medium finish. (No score)

1995 Fattoria di Felsina Berardenga Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia – The nose on the ’95 Rancia was floral with spice, cinnamon and a hint of stems. On the palate, I found smooth tart cherry and cedar with a beautiful balance of acidity verse structure, which led to a refined yet slightly restrained finish. (92 points)

1997 Marchesi Mazzei Chianti Classico Castello di Fonterutoli – On the nose, I found plum fruit with a dusting of confectioners sugar followed by veal reduction and cedar. On the palate, cherry was dominant with a musky, animal note. Bright sour fruit appeared on the finish. (86 points)

1997 La Massa Chianti Classico Giorgio Primo – I found restrained fruit on the nose, as sour berries and cinnamon gram come forward. On the palate, I found jammy cherry but little else and this wine lost momentum leading into the finish. (86 Points)

1997 Castello di Monsanto Tinscvil Toscana IGT – This wine showed a mix of blue and black fruit on the nose with hints of beefy broth. On the palate, I found sour cherries and bitters leading to a short tart finish. (86 points)

1977 Castello di Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva Il Poggio - The 1977 Monsanto, Il Poggio showed vibrant and fresh aromas reminding me of autumn with dried cherry, allspice and baking pie crust. On the palate, I found sweet cherry tobacco and cedar on a balanced and delicate frame. The finish was medium long with red fruit and hint of copper penny. An amazing bottle of wine. (95 points)

1980 Castello di Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva Il Poggio - The nose of this wine showed undergrowth and herbs with dusty dark fruit and a bit of old parchment paper. On the palate, I found tart yet delicate raspberry fruit, which led to a tannic anise finish that was a bit marred by acidity. (89 points)

Dessert

2006 Szent Benedek Pinceszet Tokaji Remete - The nose showed apple and lemon curd with a mineral note. On the palate, I found fresh sour apple with hazelnut. This wine was rich yet refreshing all at once. (89 points)