Vintage Sangiovese at "The Sommelier's Cellar"

In wrapping up my coverage of The Italian Wine Master’s, today I bring you my notes from “The Sommeliers’ Cellar”, a portion of the tasting that was created to showcase older vintages of the wines that were on display at the show. Some people may ask, why is this important? The reason, even though many people drink wines early after release these days, is that many of these bottles need age in order to show what they’re capable of. Brunello especially, is extremely hard to gauge in its youth.

Ready to drink
2007 San Felice Il Grigio

This is not say that all Sangiovese should be placed in a wine cellar and left for over a decade, in fact, the majority of Chianti Classico, sampled at this event, was perfectly ready to drink. However, some of the best producer’s bottles simply need time before they blossom, the Fontodi Vigna del Sorbo comes to mind. In tasting these wines and in reading these notes, you can gauge what the new release bottles may one day taste like. For instance, one thing I learned, is that the wines of Tenuta Oliveto and Col C’Orcia are worth more of my attention and should be in my cellar.

Montalcino

Lastly, what I took from this tasting is how the development of certain vintages is coming along. 1999 is truly showing that it was worth the accolades bestowed upon it in Brunello di Montalcino. The wines are stunning and just entering their drink window, with pure ripe fruits and velvety textures. 1997 continues to be a super-model vintage with all the sex appeal included. Lastly, 2001 still needs time, but continues to age gracefully, and should one day, be truly glorious.

On to the Notes:

1995 Barbi Brunello di Montalcino – Aromas of brown and burnt sugar on the nose gave way to dried red berries. On the palate, this wine was full and beautifully resolved with lush sour cherry fruit made juicy by vibrant acidity. The finish was long and reminiscent of cherries and old spice. (92 points)

1999 Campogiovanni Brunello di Montalcino Riserva – The nose showed earth and minerals followed by raspberry and berry scented wax. On the palate, I found a soft expression of sweet strawberry fruit and old wood, which led to a short and drying finish. Unfortunately it seems that the structure of this wine will outlive its fruit. (91 points)

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1980 Col C’Orcia Brunello di Montalcino Riserva – The nose showed faded strawberry, herbal tea leaves and minerals. The palate came across as savory and juicy with cherry, plum and mineral salinity. This wine may be on its down slope but it was highly enjoyable and will probably continue to drink well for many years to come. (94 points)

1997 Antinori Pian Delle Vigne Brunello di Montalcino – The nose showed, saddle leather, cedar, strawberry and brown sugar. On the palate, this wine is full and well structured with sweet dark fruits, holiday spices and hints of herbs. It was highly enjoyable through the long fresh finish. (92 points)

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1999 Tenuta di Collosorbo Brunello di Montalcino – The nose showed brown sugar and herbal green stems. The palate came across and soft and velvety yet with an underlying structure and balance. Black raspberry and mulling spices fill out the palate and faded into a long gentle finish. (90 points)

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1998 Tenuta Oliveto Brunello di Montalcino – The Oliveto stood out amongst its peers with a nose of blackberry, herbs and green olive. In the mouth, this showed amazing focus of fruit against a fine acidic backbone as sour red currant coated the palate; followed by minerals and slight salinity. The finish was long, as this wine’s tongue coating fruit slowly faded away to freshness. (94 points)

2000 Silvio Nardi Brunello di Montalcino – The nose was elegantly perfumed with floral aromatics, herbs and spice. On the palate, I found sour cherry but with little else to offer. The finish was reminiscent of the palate but very drying. This wine may just need time but at the moment its score is more representative of what’s offered on the nose as opposed to the palate. (88 points)

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1997 Camigliano Brunello di Montalcino – The nose was floral with potpourri and dark brooding fruits. On the palate, I found sweet red berries and spicy wood tones. The finish was fresh. (89 points)

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1997 Ormanni Chiant Classico Riserva – The nose of this wine reminded me of autumn, with old wood, florist shop and strawberry. On the palate, I found sweet, round red fruits, herbal tea and spices with a slight copper penny note on the finish. (90 points)

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1999 Fontodi Chianti Classico Riserva Vigna del Sorbo – The nose showed strawberry, rosemary, tanning leather and hints of manure. On the palate, I found a lush, full, structured expression of ripe, dark red fruits with mulling spice. The finish was long, as the ripe fruit slowly tapered off. (95 points)

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1990 Castello di Ama Chianti Classico – The nose showed vibrant red fruits, florist shop, leather and potpourri. On the palate, I found dried strawberry and spice. This wine somehow came across as young and full of life. It was a pleasure to taste and should continue to develop for many years to come. (94 points)

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The Sommelier's Cellar also include some great Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. My notes can be found HERE!

“The Italian Wine Masters,” Part 4 Prosecco

The Italian Wine Masters is a combined effort between The Consorzi Brunello di Montalcino, Chianti Classico, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano and Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore. It’s a trade show of sorts, where industry professionals and press are invited to meet the owners and representatives of over 100 wineries from Tuscany and the Veneto, Valdobbiadene wine growing region.

Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore

The question that comes to mind is: does the world understand that Prosecco can, and should, be more than an aperitif or palate-cleansing table wine? I’m here to say that it certainly should.

I’ve enjoyed many glasses of Prosecco in my life, and I’ve been moved by a handful of them. However, in most cases, it was simply that I wasn’t putting enough effort into finding wines of character. I’m not saying that Prosecco should stop being a highly enjoyable and easily drinkable dinner wine, but what I am saying is if you have disregarded it as nothing more than an easy-drinking aperitif, then you have done yourself a disservice.

Prosecco comes primarily from the Veneto region in the Conegliano Valdobbiadene. The wines that truly impressed me were from a handful of producers and, in most cases, from the Cartizze growing region, within the Conegliano Valdobbiadene. In my opinion, the volume, nuances and depths of flavors that these wines can reach easily make the argument that they can stand shoulder-to-shoulder with bubbly from around the world.

However, I would be remiss not to mention that there were a number of affordable, easy-drinking, unassuming and highly enjoyable Proseccos at this event, and I urge you to try both styles.

The run down, by score:
93 points - 2009 Val d’Oca Valdobbiadene Superiors di Cartizze Spumante
92 points - 2009 Col Vetoraz Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Spumante Dry Millestimato
91 points - Soligo Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Spumante Brut
91 points - 2009 Col Vetoraz Valdobbiadene Superiore di Cartizze Spumante
90 points - Col Vetoraz Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Spumante Brut
90 points - Bellenda Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Spumante Extra dry Miraval.
89 points - Col Vetoraz Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Spumante Extra Dry
89 points - Val d’Oca Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Spumante Brut
89 points - Val d’Oca Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Spumante Extra Dry millesimato
89 points - 2009 Perlage Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Spumante Extra Dry col di Manza Rive di Ogliano

On to the notes:

Bellenda Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Spumante Extra dry Miraval – The nose showed apple and citrus fruits. On the palate, this wine was refreshing and lively with granny smith apple and a hint of minerals leading to a vibrant and fresh finish. (90 points)

Soligo Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Spumante Brut – The nose showed tropical fruits and an unmistakable hint of banana. On the palate, the tropical fruit continues, backed by vibrant acidity and a pleasant, soft finish. (91 points)

Col Vetoraz Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Spumante Brut – The nose showed lemon and pear with green stems and floral notes. On the palate, I found crisp acidity and flavors of green apple. The finish was long with herbs and stone fruit. (90 points)

Col Vetoraz Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Spumante Extra Dry – The nose showed apricot, butter and citrus. On the palate, I found fresh notes of lemon peel and minerals. The finish was refreshing and light. (89 points)

2009 Col Vetoraz Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Spumante Dry Millestimato – The nose showed citrus and floral herbs. On the palate, this Prosecco was rich yet vibrant with layers of flavors. Stone fruit, minerals, white cherry and hints of salinity glided across the palate into a long refreshing finish. (92 points)

2009 Col Vetoraz Valdobbiadene Superiore di Cartizze Spumante – The nose showed ripe peach and apple. The palate was soft yet vibrantly fresh with sweet apple and citrus notes. The finish was refreshing and light. (91 points)

Val d’Oca Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Spumante Brut – The nose showed pear and hints of tropical fruits. On the palate, I found green apple backed by zesty acidity with an herbal finish. (89 points)

Val d’Oca Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Spumante Extra Dry millesimato – The nose showed minerals, clay, yeast and ripe stone fruits. On the palate, I found pear with a hint of sweetness, which ended fresh into the finish. (89 points)

2009 Val d’Oca Valdobbiadene Superiors di Cartizze Spumante – The nose showed almond extract, sage and spicy butter cookie, yet remained vibrantly fresh. On the palate, I found ripe apricot and nutty tones with tongue-curling acidity. The finish was light and mouthwatering. This was one of the best Prosecco’ I’ve ever tasted. (93 points)

2009 Perlage Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Spumante Extra Dry col di Manza Rive di Ogliano – The nose showed fresh flowers and peach. On the palate, it was fresh and soft with a hint of herbs and lime. (89 points)

“The Italian Wine Masters,” Part 3 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano

The Italian Wine Masters is a combined effort between The Consorzi Brunello di Montalcino, Chianti Classico, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano and Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore. It’s a trade show of sorts, where industry professionals and press are invited to meet the owners and representatives of over 100 wineries from Tuscany and the Veneto, Valdobbiadene wine growing region.

Vino Nobile di Montepulciano

When studying the wines of a country as large and diverse as Italy, you sometimes find yourself prioritizing or turning a blind eye to a specific region or wine from that country. When you consider the amount of wine that comes out of Italy, the number of varietals grown (over 350), and how many variations you can find on each wine from the 20 different wine-growing regions, you start to understand my plight. I am ashamed to say that Vino Nobile di Montepulciano is one of the wines that I choose to overlook. I had tried it once and it simply didn’t impress me… now, I must say, I was a fool.

I believe my first mistake was in expecting something from the wine that would remind me more of Brunello or Chianti. My second mistake was drinking a young wine. And my last mistake was never giving it a second chance… until now.

What impressed me the most about the Vino Nobile at The Italian Wine Masters were the bottles that I sampled in the Sommeliers cellar (which is why I choose to include those notes here). These wines, after ten years of age, were beautifully structured with vibrant fruit flavors and aromas that you don’t find in most Sangiovese wines from Tuscany. Vino Nobile must be made from at least 70% Sangiovese and aged for two years prior to release. The region is located Southeast of Chianti Classico and East of Montalcino. What this all amounts to is a unique expression of what Sangiovese is capable of, in a region that truly deserves more attention.

I would highly recommend searching out the wines of any of these producers. If you must drink them young, I recommend decanting them. If you have the ability to place them in your cellar, you’ll be in store for a treat in years to come.

On to the notes:

2007 Ruffino Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Lodola Nuova – This wine showed a bit of yeast on the nose, like red fruits wrapped in baking breads. On the palate, I found it to be toasty with spiced red fruits and leather. (88 points)

2004 Carpineto Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva – The nose showed animal musk, and candied strawberry. On the palate, this wine showed focused red fruit with polished acidity and structure. It was highly enjoyable yet still tannic and could easily benefit from a few years of cellaring. (90 points)

2007 Crociani Vino Nobile di Montepulciano – The nose showed masses of raspberry, cedar, herbs and a bit of older wood. The palate was structured, but not austere, and savory with rich black cherry. The finish coated the palate with fine tannin. This wine would benefit from a few years in the cellar. (91 points)

2008 Crociani Vino Nobile di Montepulciano – The nose was slightly restrained yet still showing floral notes and ripe strawberry. On the palate, I found plum and holiday spice. The finish was firm with drying tannin. This wine may really shine with a proper decanting. (89 points)

2006 Crociani Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva – The nose showed red fruits, violets and a hint of toast. On the palate, I found a rich, full-bodied wine, with brambly red fruit and cedar. The finish was smooth and long. (91 points)

1999 Crociani Vino Nobile di Montepulciano – The nose showed dried red fruits with undergrowth, hints of green stems and pepper. On the palate, the fruits turned round and sweet as this wine strutted a fine mature structure with flavors of lush wild berries and spice. The finish was fresh and juicy. (90 points)

2001 La Ciarliana Vino Nobile di Montepulciano “Vigna Scianello” – Red berries and a hint of citrus filled out the nose of this wine, as flavors of blackberry, cinnamon and salinity assaulted the palate. It showed great structure and balance leading into a long berry fruit finish. (91 points)

1999 Salcheto Vino Nobile di Montepulciano – The nose showed green stems with sour red fruit and a floral quality. On the palate, this wine was smooth with black raspberry, mineral copper and hints of salinity. (87 points)

2001 Boscarelli Vino Nobile di Montepulciano “Il Nocio” – The nose showed plum and spicy dark fruit. On the palate, I found raspberry but not much else, as this wine faded into a pleasant fruity finish. Although, this wine wasn’t relavatory, I still found it to be enjoyable and likely a great wine for an evening meal. (89 points)

2001 Dei Vino Nobile Montepulciano Riserva “Bossona” – This showed a gorgeous floral nose of violets with crushed wild berries. On the palate, I found rich red fruit on a full structured frame with herbal tea notes and spice. This wine was mouth-filling and it slowly tapered off into a finish of red fruits and dark chocolate. (92 points)