40 year-old Barolo--A rant--Of Joy!

Have you ever enjoyed a forty-year-old wine? I know that in some circles the answer would be an easy yes, but for most of us, a forty-year-old wine may not even sound appetizing. Why? Well, mainly because most of us are used to having old wines that were mis-stored and never properly cared for. Some of my friends don’t understand my obsession with buying wine on release and burying it deep in my cellar. I can guarantee that they never enjoyed a forty-year-old wine.

One time a friend told me a story which made me cringe. He was visiting a relative’s house when he noticed a large stash of wine in the sunroom. This stash contained bottles of Barolo that went as far back as 20 years. Upon further investigation, and a near interrogation of his family, he determined that these were wines had been gifted to them over many, many, many years. A wine that was intended for a cool cellar had instead been stored in a hot sunroom—and we wonder why people fear old wine.

It’s not just your crazy uncle either. Have you ever walked past a wine store that had bottles in the window? What do you think they do with those bottles?

If anything, this is a post about storage: about patience and about truly giving the respect, which an older bottle deserves. What if I told you that I bought this wine for $120, and from a vendor I trust, only one month ago? Wines like this are out there and well cared for. You just need to be willing to look for them.

PS: I’m happy to share my source—if you care enough to want it.

There's not much more that you can do other than sit back and enjoy an experience like the one I encountered with this wine. The cork was nearly perfect, yet it broke while being pulled. It was that pop sound, when the cork broke, and the bottom half was sucked into the bottle, which first brought emotions of agitation—yet then a feeling a joy, as this bottle had been sitting in storage with a perfect seal for 40 years.

1974 Giovanni Accomasso & Figlio Barolo - The nose was reticent at first, with an aroma that reminded me of bologna. However, before long, this aroma vanished, and what followed was pure Barolo joy. The bouquet turned to a collage of dried roses, small red berries, dark rich soil, minerals, green olive and hint a beef broth—a perfect nose for an aged Barolo. On the palate, it was juicy, yet there was still a hint of tannin, pulling at the back of my tongue. Dried red fruits, saline minerals and citrus rind acidity washed across my senses and lasted into the finish, along with slight metallic notes. A truly amazing wine! (95 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

A Chianti Lovers Dream: The 2010 Riservas

The '95 Felsina Chianti Classico
Riserva is still going strong at age 19

An article by: Eric Guido

Some wine is meant for the cellar, while most can go right to the table. But these generalizations tend to fade when talking about Chianti Classico. In their youth, these are fun and fruity wines with enough acidity and structure to carry a meal. However, as they mature they soften, grow darker, and begin to display more earth, natural wood and spice. It is this evolution that keeps me putting bottles of Chianti Classico in the cellar.  In a good vintage, it is one of the most versatile wines being made today.  However, where a regular Chianti Classico (normale) will bring you night after night of enjoyment at your dinner table, the Riserva level wines mature beautifully in the cellar.  Which brings us to the 2010 Chianti Classico Riservas.

Classic is a word often used to describe the long, cool growing season in 2010, with a decent amount of rain moderated by periods of extended warmth and sunshine. This mix produced exciting wines of structure with juicy acidity and bright, focused fruit that really grabs your attention and holds it from the first glass through the last. Most of the straight Chianti Classico's are drinking beautifully right now, yet the 2010 vintage played right into winemakers' hands, allowing them to create Riserva level wines of exceptional quality and agebility. These are serious Chianti Classico that show the best qualities of the region and belong in your cellar. The early drinking 2011 vintage will give you more to drink over the next few years, but for me; stocking up on 2010 is my priority, because these wines should provide two decades (or more) of enjoyment.

Here's a list of some of the best 2010 Chianti Classico Riservas, in a number of price ranges, that I've tasted this year.

On To The Tasting Notes:

2010 San Giusto a Rentennano Chianti Classico Le Baroncole - The nose showed an intense burst of woodsy raspberry and cherry with hints of floral undergrowth, cedar and herbs, offset by a whiff of dark chocolate. On the palate, this showed silky textures with a vibrant, sexy personality, coating the senses with ripe red fruits and spice. Beneath it all was a refined structure that you could miss on a single sip under all that intense fruit. The finish turned fresh, yet grainy tannin could still be felt on the palate. This was a remarkably balanced wine with a slight inflection of oak, that's drinking great now, but should get even better with time. (94 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher! (avg. $45)

2010 Fontodi Chianti Classico Riserva Vigna del Sorbo - The nose was restrained at first, yet became more giving with time in the decanter. Tart black cherry, moist fall leaves, dried flowers and licorice were all on display, yet still holding back. On the palate, it was tense, yet concentrated and dark with compact cherry, wood (not oak) and leather notes, kept in check by a stern tannic backbone. The finish was youthful and ungiving, needing years in the cellar to show it’s true colors, yet the potential is there. This is a wine for the cellar. (94 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher! (avg. $75)

2010 Fattoria di Fèlsina Berardenga Chianti Classico Riserva - The nose was restrained and youthful, showing young cherry, dried flowers, animal musk, minerals, and Tuscan dust. On the palate, it showed silky textures with tart cherry and dried spices, which quickly firmed up with fine-grained tannin. Compact flavors of red fruit and cedar lingered long on the dry, tense finish. This 2010 riserva is in need of five to ten years in the cellar, and should be wonderfully classic as it matures. (92 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher! (avg. $27)

2010 Castello di Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva - The nose showed cherry with hints of stem, animal musk and a bright herbal note, which provided lift. On the palate, I found vibrant red fruits, spice, old wood tones and hints of soil. The finish showed hints of structure with juicy red fruits.  This is a great Chianti Classico Riserva in the value category; it's drinking great now with proper decanting, and can go a decade or more in the cellar. (91 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher! (avg. $20)

2010 Antinori Chianti Classico Villa Antinori Riserva - The nose showed ripe black cherry, minty herbs, cedar and dark oak looming in the background. On the palate, it was rich yet remained fresh throughout. Spicy red fruit, leather and notes of dark chocolate cascaded along the palate, leaving concentrated red berry fruit on the finish. Although the oak was more pronounced than I usually prefer, I still found it enjoyable. This wasn't my cup of tea, but if oak with your Sangiovese is a quality you appreciate, this wine will be for you. (89 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher! (avg. $32)

A Coming of Age: Pecchenino Barolo

So you’ve become one of the top producers of Dolcetto in your region. Your winery produces some of the best juice coming out of Dogliani, Piedmont. Your base-level wine outperforms most wines in its price point, and your top wines are some of the best and most age-worthy in the region. So what do you do next? You make Barolo, of course.

Now we’re not talking about just any Barolo either. With the 2004 vintage, Pecchenino Barolo Le Coste hit the market with rave reviews; a wine which wasn't made by the son of a legendary Baroloista. Instead, it was made by Orlando Pecchenino, who has three generations of family experience working in the vineyards of Dogliani. Speaking with Orlando helps to put this puzzle together. He’s a passionate man, bent on perfection, whether that perfection comes from the hand of man or by abstaining and allowing the grape to express itself in neutral barrels. He’s open to experimentation and the opinions of others, but in the end, what goes into the bottle is all that matters, and the quality of Pecchenino Barolo cannot be denied.

Currently in the Pecchenino portfolio are two Barolo, with a third on the way. The San Giuseppe is a ripe and juicy effort, which comes across as elegant and accessible with sweet tannins. Yet, even with its plush character, this wine has the stuffing to age. It’s enjoyable on so many levels and I highly recommend it as an introduction to the house style. However, for me, it’s the single vineyard Barolo Le Coste (a little known vineyard in the southern reachs of Monforte d’Alba) which will find it’s way into my cellar. The Le Coste is immaculately balanced, fruit forward and has enough structural backbone to age beautifully. It’s a rich wine, yet it seems to hover on the palate with radiant dark Nebbiolo fruit, while tempting the senses with violet floral tones and spice. The fact that these wines are aged in neutral casks just goes to show the quality of the fruit and the perfect ripeness it achieves. 2004 was only the beginning, as Le Coste continues to improve with each passing vintage.

Pecchenino is a producer to watch; I can assure you, they are firnly on my radar--and also keep your eyes open for a Barolo Bussia in 2012. Below, you’ll find tasting notes from the ‘08, ’09 and highly-anticipated 2010 vintage. It was an eye-opening experience to taste these vintages side by side. They are all wonderful, but the 2008 Le Coste stole my heart. Enjoy.



On to the Wines:

2010 Pecchenino Barolo San Giuseppe – The nose showed rich dark cherry, a hint of herbs and spice with balsamic tones in a rich, yet fresh and elegant expression. On the palate, it was velvety smooth with ripe fruits, yet perfectly balanced by juicy acidity and hints of tannic heft providing backbone. The finish was long with sour cherry, lingering tannin and balsamic tones. A beautiful wine. (93 points)

Producer website: Pecchenino
Avg. price $49
Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2009 Pecchenino Barolo San Giuseppe – The nose was tense, seeming to be holding back it’s true power. It showed young red berries, hints of stem and herbs. On the palate, it was weighty with silky textures, tart berry fruit, and hints of citrus peel, turning more angular and dense toward the close. A firm tannic bite took control through the finish. With time, this should balance out more and could one day deserve a higher score. (90 points)

Producer website: Pecchenino
Avg. price $60
Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2010 Pecchenino Barolo Le Coste – The nose showed black cherry with sour floral tones, undergrowth, hints of grapefruit and a menthol lift. On the palate, it was feminine, with red fruits contrasted by fine tannin in a juicy and seemingly weightless expression. Staying red berries lingered on the finish, turning dry as the wine’s structure bore down on the palate. This is a serious Barolo in need of time in the cellar, yet it should emerge as a beauty. (94 points)

Producer website: Pecchenino
Avg. price $63
Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2009 Pecchenino Barolo Le Coste – The nose was dark and powerful with ripe red fruits, sweet florals, spice and a mentholated freshness. On the palate, a grounding note of bitter, medicinal herb and spice, which provided a beautiful contrast of textures, came together with ripe raspberry and cherry. The finish was long with earthy dark fruits which seemed to saturate the senses. The 2009 Pecchenino showed wonderful balance in its dark and brooding nature, a true standout in the vintage. (93 points)

Producer website: Pecchenino
Avg. price $65
Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2008 Pecchenino Barolo Le Coste – The nose was classic and wonderfully expressive with intense red berry, spicy floral tones, mineral laden soil and undergrowth. On the palate, it was rich with a bitter twang, showing dark red fruits, spice and inner floral tones. The finish was elegantly balanced with ripe red berry fruit and balsamic notes contrasted by fine tannins. (94+ points)

Producer website: Pecchenino
Avg. price N/A
Find it on: Wine-Searcher!