Producer Spotlight: G.D. Vajra

A couple of terms I’ve often heard in Italian wine circles, “Buy the producer, not the vintage.” or “If you want to find a good Barbera or Dolcetto, look to the producer of a good Barolo.” In this case, G.D. Vajra applies to both. Only a year ago, the name G.D. Vajra was nothing more to me than another producer of Barolo making wine in the Langhe with a single vineyard bottle coming from Bricco Viole vineyard.

However, since that time, my head has been turned. It started with a review from Antonio Galloni (Wine Advocate), of the 2006 G.D. Vajra Freisa, which he scored 95 points. To me, it was the challenge of tasting a Freisa (a generally good red that remains obscure outside of Italophile circles) that could possibly score 95 points. In the end, the bottle was open, glasses poured and emptied--and I sat speechless, thinking about how utterly enjoyable the wine was. Following this experience, I realized that I had to taste more wines from this producer.

G.D. Vajra is no newcomer to Barolo; in fact, Aldo and Milena Vaira have been making notable wines since the early eighties. However, it has only been in the last few years that these wines have truly started to catch on here in the States. They are admittedly traditional in style, yet each of their wines seem to have such purity of fruit and notable elegance that it’s hard to imagine exactly how they’ve achieved such a unique style. Whatever it may be, it’s obvious to me that the fruits that go into these wines are of the highest quality, and that great attention is paid in making sure it’s transparent to the taster.

What’s more, after speaking with Giuseppe Vaira, Aldo’s son, the most apparent thing to me is that, this family of winemakers has a level of intense passion that is infectious. It’s a passion for the vines, the soil and the wine that shines through as Giuseppe speaks about this beautiful set of releases. I would recommend each of the wines below as perfect examples of their kind.

On to the notes:

2009 G.D. Vajra Dolcetto d'Alba – The nose showed focused blackberry fruit with spice, floral notes and wood tones. On the palate, this showed vibrant acidity with more blackberry and hints of citrus, leading to a clean fruity finish that provided those token Dolcetto bitters that I have grown to love. (89 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher

2008 G.D. Vajra Barbera d'Alba – The nose showed gorgeous red fruits, earth and stems. On the palate, I experienced intense ripe red berries with hints of cedar, turning to sour cherry on the finish. This wine was so pure and honest, as the quality of the fruit showed through more than anything else. (91 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher

2009 G.D. Vajra Langhe Nebbiolo – The nose showed bright florals and cranberry with menthol and hints of wood. On the palate, this wine’s feminine structure and zesty acidity made for a lifting, airy expression with pure sour cherry. The finish was fresh and palate-cleansing. This is a beautiful, young Nebbiolo that can be sipped for enjoyment but also the perfect companion for food. (92 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher

2007 G.D. Vajra Langhe Freisa Kyè - The nose showed blueberries and cherries dusted in confectioners sugar with forest notes and holiday spice. On the palate, a wave of concentration was washed down by vibrant acidity, leaving a slightly bitter finish. Rich blackberry flavors and tealeaves filled out the palate, and the finish showed an interesting spiced orange note. This may need time to integrate a little, but there's serious potential in the bottle and should be on the list of any serious Italian wine lover. (92 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher

2006 G.D. Vajra Barolo Albe - The nose showed dusty black cherry, allspice, rock dust and hints on menthol. On the palate, I found wild red berries, earth, green olive and crushed flower petals with teaming acidity and a slight sour profile. The finish showed cedar and leather, but unlike most Barolo of its age, no overwhelming tannin was present. This may not be a Barolo for the ages, but it is very enjoyable now. (90 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher 

2005 G.D. Vajra Barolo Bricco delle Viole – The nose of the Bricco delle Viole was elegant and classy, as red wild berries, roses, wood and spice aromas wafted up from the glass. On the palate, I found enveloping red fruit restrained behind a firm feminine structure. The finish coated the palate in silky tannin. From the nose alone, this bottle shows a bright future. (94 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher

2009 G.D. Vajra Moscato d'Asti – The nose showed pear, honeydew and hints of citrus. On the palate, I found plush, sweet apple in a mouth-filling yet beautifully fresh expression of Moscato. The finish showed hints of lime and a lingering refreshing sweetness. (89 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher

Values in Barolo & Barbaresco? Absolutely.

Is there value in Barolo and Barbaresco? It’s a very good question and one that I’ve been asked often. My immediate answer is… It depends on your definition of value. Why? Because Barolo has become the victim of its own marketing. The wine that’s been touted “The wine of kings, the king of wine” is something that many people seek out when they know they love Italian wine and would like to know what the “king of wines” tastes like. The problem is that the average consumer considers anything over $25 to have left the realm of value, and the average Barolo costs $45 and up into $100+.

Baroli from $25 - $40 a bottle.

Does this mean that you can’t find good bottles under that price range? Absolutely not. However, if you are looking for value in Barolo and Barbaresco, then it’s imperative that you make educated decisions because there are many bottles of cheap ($25-$35) Barolo littering the shelves of your average Wine and Liquor store that are not worth your time. However, all the notes below are from bottles costing between $25 and $45, and yes, they are very good, and yes, they are a value.

I can also assure you that it is truly worth seeking out a good bottle of affordable Barolo or Barbaresco. I’m a perfect example, as I’m truly infatuated with all wine made from Nebbiolo (the grape that makes Barolo and Barbaresco), and I would have never known how much I love these wines if I didn’t go through the process of exploration and sometimes paying a little more than average for a bottle of wine. The worst part is that I didn’t have anyone to guide me through this exploration.

So read these notes and pick a bottle to search for. Open it one night and let it breath in the bottle for a couple of hours before you pour the first glass. Enjoy it over dinner or over the course of an evening. Your first glass may be wonderful and your last glass may be amazing; that’s the magic of Nebbiolo.

On to the notes:

2005 Giovanni Viberti Barolo Buon Padre - The nose showed classic notes of cherry, roses, forest floor and tar, with a whiff of truffle. On the palate, this was savory with cherry and leather on a light, elegant frame. The finish was dry and youthful with a hint of old wood. This affordable Barolo is easily worth the tariff, and the nose alone is a gorgeous, feminine expression of Nebbiolo. (90+ points) Find it: Wine-Searcher

2006 Vietti Barolo Castiglione - The nose showed strawberry, anise, coconut and vanilla with a hint of lead pencil. On the palate, I found dusty cranberry and a hint of wood. The palate was rich with tones of darker fruit as it worked its way across the tongue. The finish showed a little rough tannin with dry red fruits. This wine is young, but not painfully so, and with a little air, it showed the darker and richer tones of Nebbiolo. (91 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher

2006 G.D. Vajra Barolo Albe - The nose showed dusty black cherry, allspice, rock dust and hints on menthol. On the palate, I found wild red berries, earth, green olive and crushed flower petals with teaming acidity and a slight sour profile. The finish showed cedar and leather, but unlike most Barolo of its age, no overwhelming tannin was present. This may not be a Barolo for the ages, but it is very enjoyable now. (90 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher

2007 Paitin di Pasquero-Elia Barbaresco Serra - Upon first pour, the nose showed roasted chestnut, which blew off quickly to reveal a gorgeous bouquet of cherry, roses, animal musk and blood orange. On the palate, I found red berries and cedar that turned spicy with time in the glass. This wine was full-bodied and incredibly silky but turned very tannic on the young medium-long finish. I'll look forward to checking in on this Barbaresco in eight to ten years’ time. (93 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher

2006 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco - The 2006 Produttori del Barbaresco Normale was fantastic for a young Nebbiolo. It was a textbook example with elegant red fruits, roses and tobacco on the nose. There was black cherry on the palate, as this showed to be very young, yet highly enjoyable, with a fresh balance of acidity and a big tannic shutdown on the finish. I will buy this wine by the case. (92 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher

Okay, okay, okay, so this is not Barolo or Barbaresco, but it is made from Nebbiolo in Piedmont, and it is a great bottle of wine. I didn’t even intend to include it here but was so thoroughly impressed by it that I felt it was my duty to share it with my readers... Also, I notice Wine-Searcher doesn't list it, but this next bottle can also be found at Grapes: The Wine Company

2006 Cantina dei Produttori Carema Nebbiolo di Carema Riserva - On the nose, this wine showed strawberry, musk and earth with hints of cinnamon and ginger in a beautiful feminine expression of Nebbiolo. On the palate, I found focused red berry fruit with savory mushroom and hints of salinity. The palate started tight and focused but turned full and expansive with air. The finish was long with berry fruit and wonderfully fresh. This wine is a great early-drinking Carema. (91 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher

The Wines of Willi Schaefer

My exploration of German wines and Riesling in particular has led me to a number of exciting experiences. The more I taste these wines, submerge myself in the history of the producers and geography of the vineyards, the more I come to realize that Riesling will always find a place in my cellar. The idea that I have never taken the time to explore this region before seems ludicrous to me now. I am a convert to the love of Riesling.

As I continue my journey, poking and prodding willing retailers and reading the work of great bloggers and writers, certain standards emerge. Such as, while A.J. Adams is often referred to as the exciting newcomer of German Riesling, Willi Schaefer is the gold standard and offers well-priced, consistently excellent Rieslings.

Willi Schaefer is a small estate located in the commune of Bernkasel-Graach, of the Middle-Mosel. Willi, and his son Christof, have holdings in the Graacher Domprobst and Himmelreich vineyards, as well as Wehlener Sonnenuhr. The wines are known to be highly enjoyable in their youth, as well as aging beautifully in the cellar. They are also known for disappearing quickly off retailer’s shelves, as this is a producer who’s been turning out stellar wines longer than most of us have been old enough to drink them. That’s not to say it’s impossible, especially in today’s world of the Internet.

A great selection of Riesling at: Crush

Each of the wines below are of exceptional quality and provide great value. These are wines that will excite your palate and wow your guests. Further, if it’s mature Riesling that you love, the Kabinett and the Spätlese will do fine in your cellar. Lastly, keep your eyes open for the 2009 Mosel Himmelreich Grosses Gewachs from Willi Schaefer. This is one of Schaefer’s dry Rieslings, which my sources tell me, is amazing.

On to the notes:

2009 Willi Schaefer Riesling – The nose showed honeysuckle, white cherries, wax and a light citrus spritz. On the palate, I found pineapple, which went from sweet to sour as it washed across the tongue into a slightly short yet highly enjoyable finish. (88 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher

2009 Willi Schaefer Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett – The nose on the Graacher Himmelreich Kabinett was less ripe but much more finessed than the regular Riesling. It showed pear, lemon custard and slate stone. On the palate, I found peach and pineapple with tongue-curling acidity balanced by a hint of sweetness. The finish was elegant and long with citrus notes. (90 points) Find it: Wine Searcher

2009 Willi Schaefer Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spätlese – The nose showed grapefruit, slate dust, floral stems and hints of coconut. On the palate, I found a gorgeous balance of sweet verse acid with honey, minerals and light yet mouth-filling lemon. The finish was long and mouthwatering with intense citrus on the mid-palate. This is a nice step up from the Kabinett and an amazing value. (91 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher