“The Italian Wine Masters.” Part 1 Brunello di Montalcino

The Italian Wine Masters is a combined effort between The Consorzi Brunello di Montalcino, Chianti Classico, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano and Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore. It’s a trade show of sorts, where industry professionals and press are invited to meet the owners and representatives of over 100 wineries from Tuscany and the Veneto, Valdobbiadene wine growing region.

The offerings are extensive, spanning five banquet halls within the Hilton on 6th Ave. in NYC. Each table offered multiple wines from the producer’s portfolios, highlighting the most recent vintages. The size and scope of this event is impossible to cover in the seven hours that I was given to peruse the aisles. However, I was determined to try.

In many cases, I had to pick my battles, as I would have needed a second day to have even come close to tasting through all the event had to offer. My priority was to sample a range of wines from each of the regions and attempt to find some of the best offerings. I sincerely apologize to any of the winemakers whose tables I was unable to visit. But, hey there’s always next year, and if nothing else, this report makes for an excellent peak into these new vintages.

What’s more is that I was fortunate enough to have been invited to “The Sommeliers Cellar.” a room where back vintages of many of the attending producers’ wines were being poured. It was a wonderful insight to where these wines are going as they age in our cellars. To taste Sangiovese in its youthful form can be difficult. However, to taste it from a recent vintage and then compare it to that same producer’s bottle, from ten or more years back, shows just how amazing these wines become with age.

Due to the massive amount of tasting notes collected (83 in all), I’ve decided to split them up over the course of the week. And so, without further ado, I give you Brunello di Montalcino.

The Brunello di Montalcino growing region includes Brunello di Montalcino, Rosso di Montalcino, Saint’Animo and Moscadello di Montalcino. Of these, Brunello is obviously the most well known, and with good reason. Brunello has the name, the image and the international branding to keep it on the tongues of collectors, vintage after vintage. Made from 100% pure Sangiovese and aged over a period of four years prior to release, Brunello is able to last and mature for decades in a well maintained cellar. They are big and structured wines that can be almost painful to enjoy in their youth without extensive decanting. However, as I can attest to, Brunello is well worth the wait, as can be seen from my tasting notes of vintages with 10 years or more under their belt.

Rosso di Montalcino was created to allow producers to have an early release wine that can be enjoyed upon release by consumers. These wines can be highly variable, but they can also provide great value and, in some cases, they verge on a quality level that is often referred to as “baby Brunello.”

On to the notes:

2006 Capanna Brunello di Montalcino – The Capanna Brunello di Montalcino is painful to drink in this early stage. The nose showed dark red fruits and hints of barnyard. On the palate, sour red fruit and herbs fought against the tannic structure of the wine but were ultimately shut down as they coated my palate in tannin. This wine needs many years before showing what it’s truly capable of. (90 points)

2004 Capanna Brunello di Montalcino Riserva – The 2004 Riserva showed a gorgeous nose of dusty dark berries with soil and dark woodsy notes. On the palate, this showed remarkable richness yet refinement, as flavors of sour strawberry and spiced herbal tea tantalized the senses. The finish gave way to palate-coating tannin, which should keep the concentration on the palate in check for some years to come. This is a wine that I would choose for my own cellar and will be very happy to enjoy in its maturity. (94 points)

2006 Il Poggione (Proprietá Franceschi) Brunello di Montalcino – The nose showed elegant floral notes against rich red fruits. On the palate, this wine was focused with spicy sweet cranberry yet restrained by its large structure. (91 Points)

2005 Il Poggione (Proprietá Franceschi) Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Vigna Paganelli – The Riserva Vigna Paganelli took the elegance of the noramale, yet added rich dark fruit and wood tones to the nose. On the palate, this wine was big in structure with mouth-filling raspberry fruit fading to an uncharacteristically short finish. (90 points)

2005 Azienda Agricola Le Ragnaie Brunello di Montalcino – The nose of the 2005 Le Ragnaie was beautiful, yet not classic to Brunello in any way, as aromas of floral cranberry were joined by an unmistakable wash of coconut. On the palate, it was light and fresh with red berries, but dry going into the finish. (89 points)

2006 Azienda Agricola Le Ragnaie Brunello di Montalcino – The nose showed manure and saddle leather. On the palate, I found red berries and spicy cinnamon stick. It ended in a simple yet enjoyable finish laden with red fruits. (90 points)

2006 Campogiovanni (San Felice) Brunello di Montalcino - The nose showed ripe strawberry, animal musk and hints of wood. On the palate, I found sour red fruits with a savory round body and hints of salinity, leading to a long structured finish. (91 points)

2005 Il Greppone Mazzi (Ruffino) Brunello di Montalcino – On the nose, I found red fruits and herbs. The palate showed soft, but drying red fruit with hints of cedar and spice. (87 points)

2006 Tassi Brunello di Montalcino – The nose was classic with crushed wild berries, fresh leather and hints of barnyard. On the palate, I found dark strawberry fruit and savory herbs leading to a long red berry finish. (91 points)

2006 Tassi Brunello di Montalcino Selezione Franci – Darker and slightly more elegant that the regular Brunello, the Selezione Franci showed an intoxicating note of cherry pipe smoke on the nose. On the palate, I found a balanced, fresh, yet structured Brunello with rich dark fruits and cinnamon leading into a long cherry laden finish. (92 points)

2005 Terre Nere Brunello di Montalcino Riserva – The nose showed red fruits with earth and a hint of manure. The palate was full-bodied and nicely structured, while showing black cherry and minerals. The finish was medium-long with hints of menthol. (89 points)

2006 Uccelliera Brunello di Montalcino – The nose on the 2006 Uccelliera Brunello di Montalcino was fragrant with dark fruits, lush flowers and undergrowth. On the palate, I found a structured, full-bodied wine with ripe red fruits and spicy wood. The structure continued into the finish and left the palate wrapped in tannin. This should be an interesting wine to follow over many years. (91 points)

Later this week, I’ll be publishing my notes from the Sommiliers Cellar, which will include a number of notes from aged bottles of Brunello di Montalcino. It will be well worth the wait, so check back throughout the week.

The Brunello di Montalcino rundown (by score):
2004 Capanna Brunello di Montalcino Riserva (94 points)
2006 Tassi Brunello di Montalcino Selezione Franci (92 points)
2006 Il Poggione Brunello di Montalcino (91 Points)
2006 Campogiovanni (San Felice) Brunello di Montalcino (91 points)
2006 Tassi Brunello di Montalcino (91 points)
2006 Uccelliera Brunello di Montalcino (91 points)
2006 Capanna Brunello di Montalcino (90 points)
2006 Azienda Agricola Le Ragnaie Brunello di Montalcino (90 points)
2005 Il Poggione Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Vigna Paganelli (90 points)
2005 Azienda Agricola Le Ragnaie Brunello di Montalcino (89 points)
2005 Terre Nere Brunello di Montalcino Riserva (89 points)
2005 Il Greppone Mazzi (Ruffino) Brunello di Montalcino (87 points)

Rosso di Montalcino

2008 Capanna Rosso di Montalcino – The nose showed wild black berries and violets. On the palate, this came across and fresh yet simple with red fruit and slightly astringent tannin on the finish. (87 points)

2008 Il Poggione (Proprietá Franceschi) Rosso di Montalcino - The 2008 Rosso showed crushed wild berries, green stems, white pepper and menthol. The palate was velvety and full with lush red berries and cinnamon, which lasted into the long finish. (90 points)

2009 Terre Nere Rosso di Montalcino – The nose showed dark, older wood with red fruit and hints of chalk. On the palate, I found faded red fruit and wood, which led to a red candied finish. (86 points)

2009 Uccelliera Rosso di Montalcino – The nose showed plum reduction, leather and floral perfume. On the palate, I found spicy red fruits, but the slightest hint of alcohol marred the finish. (87 points)

Sant’Antimo

2007 Tassi Sant’Antimo BAC – The 2007 BAC was an interesting departure after tasting so much Brunello. It showed pomegranate, green stems and chalk dust on the nose. The palate was full and chewy with blackberry fruit, bell pepper and herbal greens. The finish was long and reminiscent of the palate. This was an interesting blend of Cabernet and Petit Verdot, yet I feel that the Cabernet brought too much greenness to this wine. (87 points)

Big bottles and collectors who love them.

There is nothing like a big vintage bottle of wine to bring friends and fellow enthusiasts together. When I first caught the wine bug, my studies led my to the theories behind big bottles and the benefits that come with them. We’re talking about magnums, jeroboams (double magnum) and imperials (6 liter), bottles that the average consumer equates with cheap party wine but when talking about ageable fine wine, these bottles provide benefits that few are aware of.

So what’s so great about big bottles? They age slower, but many will also argue that they age better. There are many theories behind these benefits, and one cold hard fact that has convinced me to buy and store big bottles. Some push the theory that wine is a living thing, and that when more wine is in the bottle and able to age slowly, it supposedly ages more gracefully. This may be true, but I doubt that it’s scientifically proven.

Then there’s the fact that exposure to air is one of the main factors in how a wine ages. One of the main reasons for winemakers to keep the cork closure (instead of switching to screw caps or synthetics) is that corks allow a miniscule and slow transfer of air into the bottle. The thing about magnums is that there is just as much air in the bottle as your average 705ml. Less oxygen means slower oxidation (yes, wine oxides when exposed to oxygen) and slower oxidation results in slower aging. This is in no way a cold hard fact, but certainly a good reason for someone to put some magnums away for the future.

So what’s the big bottle that brought this topic to these pages? The Montevertine Il Sodaccio.

1985 Azienda Agricola Montevertine Il Sodaccio Vino da Tavola (from 3L / Double Magnum) – The most interesting thing about this wine was how it seemed to grow younger and younger throughout the night. The nose showed dusty potpourri with dried cranberries, earth and leather; but as time passed, the dried fruit turned more and more vibrant and took on a sweet mature roundness. On the palate, I found sour cherry with tobacco and dried herbs. At first, this wine was tight with a sour hint, but the fruit grew darker, sweeter and mouth-filling as time went on. The finish was long with dried red fruit and sweet earth. (93 points)

As I mentioned above, this bottle encouraged a group of wine lovers to form a dinner and tasting around its opening. And so the theme “Wines that don’t suck” became the mantra of the night; and I can assure you, these wines did not suck. Nothing like a bunch of wine collectors all pulling out bottles to impress their friends.

Before I move onto the notes, I would be remiss not to mention the amazing meal we had at Sojourn Restaurant at 244 East 79th street. I kid you not when I say that it was some of the most enjoyable food I’ve eaten in a while. It wasn’t the originality or obscure technique that impressed me; instead, it’s that the food was perfectly cooked, perfectly seasoned and presented beautifully. I can’t think of a better compliment to pay to a Chef and his kitchen. Bravo… Go to this restaurant.

On to the Notes:

2009 Loimer Riesling Kamptal DAC – The nose was fresh and uplifting with white flowers, sweet butter and a spritz of lime. On the palate, I found lemon pith and stony minerals, which started full and juicy but turned dry into the finish. (86 points)

NV Ulysse Collin Champagne Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs – Upon being popped and poured, the nose was all buttery popcorn and pecorino cheese. With time in the glass, aromas of ground wheat and whey rose with a hint of green foliage came forward. On the palate, this was light and refreshing with steely malt, sour stone fruit, and possibly young mango. The finish was a little bitter but very pleasant. (90 points)

1998 Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese – The nose on the Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese was a refreshing, confectionary treat as aromas of raw sugar and floral green stems led the way to honeyed grapefruit and citrus zest. On the palate, I found a mix of juicy orange, apricot and/or pear that seemed to fill every taste bud with an explosion of flavor and slowly faded into a mouthwatering finish. (93 points)

2008 Frank Cornelissen Etna Susucaru – This wine was a conundrum. It was an exercise in what wine could be if every winemaker harvested fruit from volcanic slopes with a totally non-interventionalist approach. This wine showed what could only be described by this taster as cherry grapefruit juice with fresh picked mint and hints of green grass. On the palate, it was light on its feet with apple and mulling spices, more grapefruit, and a refreshing herbal tea note. The finish was fresh and cleansed the palate nicely. Is it wine? I think so. Do I like it? Absolutely. (92 points)

1998 Travaglini Gattinara Riserva – The first thought to enter my mind as I tasted this wine was: Why don’t I have this in my cellar? The nose showed a dark and ripe expression of Nebbiolo. It was like ripe black cherries buried in rich, fresh tossed soil with a savory beef stock brewing off to the side. On the palate, I found rich red fruits playing a sweet and sour act as fresh mint and spices filled out this wine’s broad shoulders. The finish was long with red fruit and soil but also fine silky tannin, which promised a bright future for the 1998 Travaglini Gattinara Riserva. (94 points)

1994 Case Basse (Soldera) Brunello di Montalcino Riserva – I honestly believe this bottle could have been open for many more hours to really strut its stuff. On the nose, I found dusty cherry, leather, soil and a hint of eucalyptus. Earth, stems and sweet red berries filled out the palate with vibrant acidity. The finish showed savory broth and notes of salinity. (94 points)

1995 Müller-Catoir Mußbacher Eselshaut Rieslaner Auslese – The color was a rich gold with amber hints and a beautiful sheen. The nose was heady, with tropical fruits, orange peel and a hint of old library book, which ground the ripe fruit in reality. The palate showed flavors of more tropical fruits, but wrapped in baking puff pastry with teaming acidity that kept the sweetness in check. The finish was long with a sour patch tinge. (92 points)

1994 Isole e Olena Vin Santo del Chianti Classico - Roasted almond, varnish, orange peel, chestnut and smoke filled out the nose of this beautiful Vin Santo. The palate was perfectly resolved yet lively with acidity, and sweet caramel was followed by roasting nuts and a hint of tropical fruit. The finish was over a minute long with vibrant acidity, showing nuts and orange that faded into warm wood tones. (92 Points)

A Riesling Resolution

Last night, I found myself sipping a Riesling at Sojourn Restaurant on the Upper East Side. As I sat there, admiring its bold flavors and mouth-watering acidity, the Sommelier came over to introduce himself. A few moments later, he asked what I thought of the wine. After a brief exchange about what was in the glass, he went on to explain his frustration over how few people appreciate Riesling. It is such a versatile wine, capable of expressing itself beautifully from bone-dry all the way to sticky sweet and all the while saturating yet stimulating your palate… So why don't more people drink Riesling?

“Maybe it's the Tolkienesque script on the bottles,” I replied. Or that the average person doesn't know the difference between a Kabinett and an Auslese, a Trocken or a Feinherb. Or, maybe, it's that the average wine and liquor store doesn't provide a quality selection or one that even comes close to representing what the region is capable of. In fact, I think it's all of these things… One thing I’m sure of, however, is that Riesling is worth overcoming these challenges.

Thinking back over the last few years, there are a lot of great wines that stick out in my mind. Among those wines is a smattering of whites, which convinced me long ago that if I’m going to drink white wine, I want it to be Riesling. However, it seemed that each time I wanted to put some effort into experimenting with the varietal, something Italian would come along and turn my head. And so, I decided to make a commitment; that 2011 will be the year in which I truly explore Riesling, and it’s a journey that I hope you will take with me.

Like any journey into unknown territory, I required a guide. After polling the opinions of many trusted sources, the decision was unanimous: The staff at Crush: Wine and Spirits, were the people to see. One glance at their inventory and the writings/blogging of Wine Director, Stephen Bitterolf was all I needed to know that this team was serious about Riesling, and they have been more than helpful in getting me started.

So where to start? In my opinion, the biggest challenge with Riesling is in understanding the different styles and what to expect, as well as what you prefer. And so, I opted to try a lineup of wines from one producer in the region who came highly recommended: A.J. Adam.

Mention the name A.J. Adam in the company of an experienced Riesling aficionado and the least you’ll get is a nod of respect. However, it’s more likely that the response will be one of admiration and genuine excitement about this young producer, who has only started to recently craft wines under the name “A.J. Adam.”

Andreas Adam, of the Middle Mosel, is best known for a collection of wines made from the Hofberg vineyard, with a soil composition of mostly weathered slate and clay. These wines are wonderfully rich and full yet somehow electric through a whip of vibrant acidity that excites the palate. Recently, he has also crafted a Grosses Gewächs (Germany’s version of a Grand Cru) from the Goldtropfchen vineyard. It’s a dry wine that is spellbinding on the nose with a massive amount of flavor and character on the palate. All the wines were amazing, and picking which ones to add to my cellar was near impossible.

If you don’t know Riesling, A.J. Adam is a great place to start. Readers can also expect many more updates such as these throughout 2011, as I continue to explore this amazing region. For those of you that love the little details there are many to follow. For now, permit me to simply introduce you to four very special wines, and the best part is my top scoring bottle also happens to be the best priced around $26.

On to the Wines:

2009 A.J. Adam Piesporter Goldtropfchen GG – The color of A.J. Adam Goldtropfchen was of pure white gold. In the nose, spring flowers and grapefruit assaulted my senses as aromas of raw almonds and burnt butter followed behind adding subtle complexities. On the palate I found sour lemon drops with minerals and a touch of green grass. The flavors turned to sour apple as this wine’s tongue-curling acidity turned what was originally a perception of a full-bodied wine into something ethereal and light as a feather. The lasting finish showed lemon and lime with hints of salinity. Today, this wine is almost too much to drink, but with proper cellaring, may one day be truly magical. (92 points)

2009 A.J. Adam Dhroner Hofberg Riesling Feinherb – In the nose, this showed lemon and wet slate with a hint of honey and kiwi. On the palate, I found ripe peach, apple and stone with just the slightest kiss of sweetness. This was velvety and mouth-coating, followed by a mouthwatering finish of lemon and lime. The Hofberger Feinherb would be a perfect alternative to the Kabinett for a taster who prefers a bit less residual sugar. However, I still found the Kabinett to be a more complete wine. (91 points)

2009 A.J. Adam Dhroner Hofberg Riesling Kabinett - The nose was at first ungiving, but with some time in the glass, this wine bloomed with fresh brioche, slate dust, citrus and white flower petals. On the palate, I found a hint of sweetness balanced by tart lemon curd and clotted cream, which showed incredible mouth-filling richness that was suddenly wisped away, and turned refreshing, by lively acidity. The finish was like that perfect glass of lemonade on a steaming hot day. This is a bottle to wow your guests with or simply treat yourself to the depths of which Riesling is capable of. (93 points)

2009 A.J. Adam Dhroner Hofberg Riesling Spatlese – Aromas of lime, walnut and green apple wafted up from the glass. On the palate, this was weighty yet still fresh with flavors of honeydew melon and grapefruit playing a sweet and sour act across the tongue. There was a perceptible amount of sweetness, but this didn’t come across as sweet; instead it was full, balanced and bursting with flavor. The finish was long with citrus fruit and a hint of toasty pecan. This bottle is gorgeous now, yet I can’t help but wonder how great it will be in 10 to 15 years. (92 points)

Also see: The Wines of Willi Schaefer