The Slow Wine Perspective

The news that Slow Food was separating from Gambero Rosso had been a question mark in the minds of many Gambero Rosso readers--until now. With the release of Slow Wine and the Slow Wine tasting event and press conference in NYC, we now have all the answers.

Essentially, Slow Food and Gambero Rosso went their separate ways over their differing set of principals. As editors Giancarlo Gariglio and Fabio Giavedoni put it, “Gambero Rosso focuses on the good, where Slow Wine looks to the good, clean and fair”. The good being the quality of the wine, the clean being the practices in the vineyard and the fair being the quality of the wine versus the cost of the bottle. It’s certainly an interesting approach and caters to the current concerns over sustainable practices and current economic situations around the world.

The question is, does Slow Wine really do the job that’s intended? The easy answer would be yes, especially since there are a large number of wines that are virtual newcomers in the American market, and their prices reflect it. However, what would have been a welcome addition would be a cost meter for different wines. Imagine the average green-loving and price conscience consumer trying to search out a bottle of 2004 Giacomo Conterno Monfortino; I doubt they would think its $450 price tag would be very fair. Of course, this is an extreme case but an excellent example. What Slow Wine does give you is the coin symbol, which represents a value-oriented bottle. This is joined by the “Snail” symbol for wineries that exhibit Slow Food values and the “bottle” symbol for “excellent average quality.”

So what separates Slow Wine from every other wine publication? Firstly, the format is very enjoyable, with a balanced mix of information about the growers, the land and the wine. However, what truly balled the audience over was the announcement that this book would contain no scores. The announcement was met with a nearly audible gasp from the crowd. Of course, it’s human nature to want to quantify everything. In the end, it’s better to look at Slow Wine as a guide to wine, not a guide to buying wine. With Slow Wine, I found myself actually reading for hours straight, something that I don’t do with the other publications.

In the end, it’s an excellent book that really brings to light some of the best grower/winemakers in Italy. It reads smoothly and is full of information about the regions, the land, the history and the people. It’s a welcome addition to any wine lover’s library.

The Slow Food, Slow Wine Website!

What about the wines?

The people at Slow Food also put together an excellent tasting with a large number of producers from the Slow Wine guide. Below are five of my top picks from the tasting… and out of respect for the folks that created Slow Wine, I decided not to include any scores.

2007 G. D. Vajra Barolo Bricco Delle Viole – It was a joy to taste the G.D. Vajra Bricco delle Viole. The nose showed an elegant, yet intense floral perfume with spiced cherries and floral stems. On the palate, it was feminine and balanced with cherries, strawberry and menthol, which provided an airy lift with a juicy mid-palate. It finished showing a fine tannic structure. This was one of the best ’07 Baroli I have tasted to date. (Slow Wine awarded this bottle their orange highlight, representing a ”Great Wine.” I wholeheartedly agree.) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2008 Corzano e Paterno Chianti I TreBorri Riserva – The nose was hallmark Tuscan with wild berries, tree bark and earth. On the palate, I found soft strawberry tones, with herbal tea and cedar. The finish was long and structured. The TreRorri Riserva was extremely enjoyable and one of my favorites of the vintage. (Corzano e Paterno was awarded the “Snail” symbol by Slow Wine, representing a winery that they “particularly like for the way it interprets Slow Food values.”)

2008 Fattoria di Felsina Chianti Classico Rancia Riserva – The ’08 Rancia was unexpectedly open at this young age. The nose showed red berries, cocoa powder and deep floral notes. On the palate, it was open and juicy with red berry fruits. The finish showed more of structure I was expecting. This is a fine example of Rancia that (in this year’s case) is more open in its youth than the Fontalloro. (Fattoria di Felsina was awarded the “Snail” symbol by Slow Wine, representing a winery that they “particularly like for the way it interprets Slow Food values.”) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2007 Prá Amarone Della Valpolicella – The nose was gorgeous with plum, raisin, minerals and undergrowth. On the palate, it was remarkably balanced and fresh yet still showed a tamed level of richness as notes of ripe black cherry and soil lingered into the long finish. (Pra was awarded the “Snail” symbol by Slow Wine, representing a winery that they “particularly like for the way it interprets Slow Food values.”)

2010 Velenosi Lacrima Di Morro D’Alba – The nose showed like a basket of fresh picked flowers with pepper, minerals and a healthy dose of earthiness. On the palate, it tasted like it smelled and had a gorgeous note of rose hips in its floral profile. It was a truly enjoyable bottle of wine for those who know and enjoy Lacrima. (Velenosi was awarded the “Bottle” symbol by Slow Wine, representing a winery “whose bottles represent excellent average quality.”) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

Food and Wine in Winter 2011

With a whirlwind of events, tastings and travels, I realized that it’s been quite some time since I sat down and thought about making mention of the food work I’ve had published and some of the killer wines that I’ve tasted in the last few months. February through April brought The V.I.P. Table a heavy workload and there’s much more to come. Also, I’d like to thank all of my readers who have allowed this small website to grow into a 3500+ monthly readership. I’m always open to comments and I welcome any opinions. So please feel free to drop me a line and let me know what you love or hate about The V.I.P. Table.

So on to “Food and Wine in Winter 2011”

Pumpkin Risotto

Nostalgia is a powerful tool in the chef’s arsenal. It’s a direct line to the hearts and minds of your guests. It's that smell from mama’s kitchen. It's that flavor, which will always remind you of home. Or that memory of togetherness around a family table, the food you ate and the happy memories you shared. Would it surprise you to know that nostalgia is a topic taught in culinary school? Well it is, and for very good reason because with nostalgia you can create a dish that will not only taste divine, but also speaks to the diner’s soul. That’s how pumpkin risotto ended up on my menu.

Read the full article and recipe: What’s Cookin’

Braised Pork Shoulder in Chianti Sauce

Braised Pork Shoulder in Chianti Sauces is amazing dish that will thrill your guests. The sauce balances richness with complex woodsy notes and vibrant acidity. It is transcendent, yet elegant and light on its feet. It’s one of those sauces that you feel could be poured over anything and never get boring. The pork is succulent, falls apart on the fork and nearly melts in your mouth.

Read the full article and recipe: What’s Cookin’

Calamari in Zimino

It's amazing how different traditional Italian food is from what most Americans grew up to believe it to be. The Sunday sauces and everything parmigiana that we grew up with are a far stretch from what you find throughout the majority of Italy. From north to south, the cuisine of Italia changes just as much as its geography, traditions and wines.

However, for the most part, one thing remains the same throughout Italy: the cuisine is based on simple recipes made great through the quality of the ingredients and the deft, passionate hand of the person who is making the dish. Calamari in Zimino is a perfect example of this.

Read the full article and recipe: What’s Cookin’

As for the wines, I don’t remember the last time that I had so many fantastic wines to choose from when writing an overview piece such as this. The wines below run the gambit of top shelf crowd pleasers to affordable daily drinkers; from Italy, Chile and the United States. There’s seriously something for everyone.

2009 Casa Silva Carménère Reserva - On the nose, I found blackberry, chalk dust, green bell pepper and manure. On the palate, it was big yet balanced, showing wild berries, more green pepper leading to a cough syrup like finish. Looking back on my notes, I feel as if these descriptors fail to do this wine justice. The fact is, it was highly enjoyable in a gripping and earthy way and an amazing value. (92 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher!

2010 Errazuriz Sauvignon Blanc Estate - The nose showed lemon with fresh cut grass, minerals and a bit of nuttiness. On the palate, this was mouth-filling with sour grapefruit, lime, minerals, and green apple. The finish was long with sour patch citrus fruits. Not only was this Sauvignon Blanc refreshing and full of varietal character, it is also an awesome value. (90 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher!

2008 Larkmead Vineyards Firebelle - The nose showed black currant, cherry liquor, spice, brown sugar and a hint of fresh-turned soil. On the palate, it was velvety smooth and luxuriant as it filled the senses with flavors of blackberry jam, cherry wood and spice. The finish was exceptionally long with blackberry and currant fruit, yet fresh and begging for another sip. Larkmead has quickly become one of my favorite producers from the Napa Valley and one sip from these luxurious, yet refined wines will make a believer out of anyone. (94 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher!

2000 Arnaldo-Caprai Sagrantino di Montefalco 25 Anni - The nose showed black cherries with vanilla sugar, cola and Christmas spices. On the palate, it was massive, bold, yet vibrant--balanced with a flavor profile that I could only described as dark chocolate covered cherries in sweet cream, yet bone dry. This wine was luxurious and smooth all the way to the long palate-coating finish. (95 points) Fine it: Wine-Searcher!

2009 Schäfer-Fröhlich Monzinger Halenberg Riesling Großes Gewächs - The nose showed lemon, pear, spice and sage with hints of floral undergrowth. On the palate, this was beautifully balanced with piercing acidity, showing citrus, honey dew, minerals and stone. The finish was remarkably fresh with linger notes of grapefruit and herbs. (94 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher!

2006 Azienda Agricola Montevertine Le Pergole Torte Toscana IGT - The nose showed dusty bright cherry, leather and cinnamon. On the palate, I found focused red fruit, floral notes and savory roasted meats with impeccable balance and a level of fresh acidity that invites you to take another sip. The finish was fresh and long with sour red fruits. At this time, the Le Pergole Torte remains restrained by its fine structure but should be a dream of a wine in five plus years. (93 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher!