2000 Barolo & Barbaresco Revisited

By: Eric Guido

So we all love to talk about how wrong the critics were with the 2000 vintage of Barolo and Barbaresco. Such a highly touted vintage that drank so well on release, yet that seemed to be all that it was. Now, with 13 years of age on these bottles, we take a glimpse into what they have matured into, and although I wouldn’t recommend aging these in your cellar, most of them are drinking beautifully.

However, to add insult to injury, we decided to add another twist to this tasting by stacking the deck with a number of "modern-style" Baroli. Modern-styled (or Internationally-styled) Barolo has become something of a bad word in Piedmont, with scores of producers now moving away from small French barrels and adding their own large Slovenian casks to their cellars for aging. There was a time when extremely low yields, roto-fermentors and small oak barrels were the mark of a modern producer. Cellars turned from dank caves into marvels of modern technology. The idea was to make a Barolo that was more approachable, younger-drinking and more acceptable to the international palate. The fact is that over the years the terms modern and traditional have become quite blurred. As even the traditionalists realized that there was nothing wrong with clean wine-making and lower yields, some even opting for roto-fermentation, yet sticking to aging in large barrel.

However, back during the 2000 vintage, modern-styled winemaking was still in its heyday. My fear was that the combination of the ripe vintage, higher concentrations and the use of new oak, would result in muddled, over-ripe, over-extracted and completely undrinkable wines; and for the most part, I was wrong. What this proves, for one thing, is that winemaking has more to do with the producer than the vintage. And another important point is that the quality of the fruit can outlast and outshine some of the most aggressive winemaking.

In the end, I wouldn't be buying these wines to put away in the cellar today. Most of them are drinking great now, and the few that need more time only need a few more years to come together. These can provide a lot of enjoyment at this time, and if you see some of the top bottles for a good price, buy them. You won't be disappointed.

On to the Wines:

2000 Michele Chiarlo Barbaresco Asili – The nose was classic and slightly rustic with aromas of cherry, forest floor, earth tones and hints of green stems. On the palate, it was amazingly soft and feminine with red fruits, inner floral notes, and a mineral core. The finish showed drying tannin and red fruits, begging for a few more years in the cellar. (89 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2000 Elio Altare Barolo La Morra – The nose showed lush red fruits, red licorice, dried flowers, intense spice and herbs. On the palate it was soft and enveloping, coating the senses in concentrated red fruits with brisk acidity to keep it fresh, showing ripe cherry and earthy soil tones. It dried out slightly on the finish with notes of dark chocolate and tart cherry. (90 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2000 Paolo Scavino Barolo Riserva Rocche dell'Annunziata – The nose was dark, and brooding with black cherry, cinnamon, spiced oak, saw dust, moist undergrowth and herbs. On the palate, it showed a smooth sheen of oak with tart red fruits, dark chocolate, cedar and wood tannin, which dried the palate. On the palate, a wave of refreshing acidity made the mouth water, leaving only a gentle tug of tannins at the cheek. (90 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2000 Vietti Barolo Lazzarito – The nose was classic with dusty cherry, tobacco, minty herbs, minerals and savory, seared meat. On the palate, it was juicy throughout with notes of strawberry, herbs, a smooth hint of oak and a truly Burgundian feel. The finish turned tart, yet stayed juicy with lingering red fruits and cedar. (92 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2000 Andrea Oberto Barolo Vigneto Rocche – The nose was expressive, rich, yet classic with roses, tart cherry, animal musk, tobacco and hints of spice. On the palate, it was unbelievably silky, yet turned grippy, with red fruits, cedar and a core of minerals driven by fresh acidity. The finish showed its youthful side with hints of drying tannin, saturating red fruits and tobacco clinging to the senses. (93 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2000 Cavallotto Barolo Riserva Vignolo – The nose was intense yet brooding with a mix of red fruit, perfumed floral notes, soil and undergrowth; it was like smelling a bouquet of fresh cut roses, stems and all. On the palate, it was rich yet juicy with black cherry fruit, inner floral tones and herbs. The finish lingered on and on with dark, saturating red fruits. (94 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2000 Elio Grasso Barolo Riserva Rüncot – The nose was beautifully expressive, revealing layer upon layer of its enticing bouquet as it sat in the glass. Notes of black cherry, brown sugar and sweet spice gave way to a dark yet explosive array of mint, ripe strawberry, and sweet, spicy floral tones. On the palate, it was focused, balanced and still youthful, showing sweet ‘n sour cherry, herbs and minerals, which filled the senses. The finish was slightly tart, showing balanced structure and hints of tannin. I can see this wine getting even better with a few years’ time. Beautiful. (95 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

For a deeper look at the 2000 vintage Baroli, check out "2000: Barolo Retrospective" from October 2010.

2001 Piedmont Retrospective

Barbaresco, Barolo and Castiglione Falletto
A classic vintage (part 1)

Wine of the Night

In the world of wine writing, there's always going to be somebody who's touting the next perfect vintage.  However, what's unfortunate is that this praise is usually created to sell wine.  What's more, the wines that are loved by the majority of today's critics, don't necessarily share anything in common with classic wines of the past, other than the name.  How do we know that a 2007 Barolo will age into something similar to the great vintages of the past?  We simply don’t.   What we do know, is that the Nebbiolo grape possess the remarkable ability to age, and that even in “off” vintages or ripe vintages, the best producers can create good wine, that should age well. 

My top three picks

2001 was not an “off” or ripe vintage.  In fact, it was quite the opposite.  To me, 2001 is a true classic vintage, which provided intense, structured wines with balanced acidity and the capacity to age for decades.  Often grouped with great vintages like ’89 and ’96, most wines tasted from ‘01 show a level of refinement and balance, that you can actually sense the quality in the glass, even as your mouth is wrapped in tannin.  In general, the aromatics are layered and truly stunning and the core of intense, pure fruit promises that these wines will last the test of time.  With that said, we have now reached the 10 year mark for 2001, and they are right where you’d expect them to be in their evolution—young and full of potential. 

The best part is it’s not too late to find many of these wines, as long as you take care to source them from reputable retailers.

Fight 1

Flight one consisted of two of the biggest names and three of the most esteemed vineyards in Barbaresco.  This flight truly showed the benefits of tasting double blind, as we worked through the wines and formed our conclusions.  A point of note is that the consensus of the group placed the Produttori Asili against the Giacosa Asili in a tie for third place wine-of-the-night (important to consider since the Produttori can be had for half the price).  I also found the Giacosa Santo Stefano to be far more interesting than the majority at the table.  The Asili came across as a little too earthy and with aromas that I don’t associate with great Barbaresco, however the Santo Stefano was simply classic to my palate. 

Lastly, I was saddened by the performance of the Produttori Rabajà, since the last time I tasted it, I felt there was much more potential in the glass.  In the end, the Giacosa Rabajà Riserva was my wine of the flight, as well as my wine of the night (and yes, this was all tasted double blind); it’s simply a great bottle of Barbaresco.

2001 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Asili – The nose showed dusty cherry and strawberry with notes of orange, rich mulling spices and the slightest whiff of old library books.  On the palate, it showed silky black cherry fruit and minerals with vibrant acidity providing an airy lift.  On the finish, notes of tart red fruit and mushrooms lingered through this wines tight, drying structure.  (93 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2001 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Rabajà – The nose was elegant and showed dark strawberry, floral stems and herbs with notes of tar, crack black pepper and moist earth.  On the palate, it first showed soft, sweet red fruit and an earthy funk with tongue curling acidity, yet as it traveled across the palate, it seemed diluted and somehow hollow.  The finish showed this wines structure with lingering notes of red fruit and earth. (91 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2001 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Santo Stefano – The nose showed rich sweet raspberry and herbs but with time in the glass it turned to tart cherry, orange peel and the slightest hint of shoe polish.  On the palate, it showed a solid core of cherry fruit, which was zesty with acidity, yet full in body.  An impression of balance and focus struck me as I sipped this wine, which should mature into something magical.  The finish was clean with dried cherry and fine tannins. (94 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2001 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Asili – The nose showed earthy funk, black cherry, breadcrumbs, and hints of green vegetables.  On the palate, I found black cherry fruit, floral notes and minerals in a soft and juicy style.  The finish showed cranberry but was short and drying. (90 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2001 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Riserva Rabajà – The nose showed deep, ripe strawberry fruit, crushed leaves, potpourri and sweet spices, yet bright and clean.  On the palate, it showed elegant, ripe red fruits with beautiful structure and balance.  The finish was long and structured.  This wine showed so much balanced mix with intensity that it’s easy to imagine great things in its future. (97 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

Flight 2

Flight two was painful.  It was designed as a flight of wines that all came from the commune of Barolo.  However, we weren’t aware of this information while tasting.  The consensus of the Giuseppe Rinaldi was that it was a modern styled Barolo and one taster even felt that it was cooked.  The intense aroma of acetone (or nail polish remover) made me think of VA.  I decided to withhold a score until I can taste this wine again.  Following that was a corked wine (which turned out to be Bartolo Mascarello).  Then the last two wines, which were very similar on the nose and even convinced me that they might have been from the same producer.  Again, from the performance on the nose, these wines came off as modern in style.  In the end, it was Giacomo Borgogno Barolo Storico Liste that was my favorite wine of the flight.

2001 Giuseppe Rinaldi Barolo Brunate Le Coste – The nose showed a whiff of initial heat, followed by rich cherry lollipop and notes of acetone.  On the palate, it was almost port-like, without the sweetness with notes of black cherry fruit.  The finish was rough with tannin and almost sticky.  One taster thought this was cooked, however, I felt it suffered from VA.  Either way I’ve reserved scoring the wine, as it may have been faulty. (N/A) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2001 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo – Corked (N/A)

2001 E. Pira and Figli (Chiara Boschis) Barolo Cannubi – The nose showed sweet red and black fruits with floral, menthol notes and a hint of black truffles.  On the palate, it was big, rich and palate staining on entry, yet a wave of acidity on the mid-palate gave the impression of focused, airy red fruits.  The finish was woody with drying tannin. (89 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2001 Giacomo Borgogno and Figli Barolo Storico Liste – The nose showed tart cherry, medicinal herbs, menthol and tobacco leaf.  On the palate, it showed sweet, soft strawberry fruit with a balance of structure and acidity that kept it focused and fresh.  The long finish was laden with spicy red fruit. (91 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

Flight 3

Flight three was a perfect way to end the evening.  For one thing, it turned up the 2^nd place wine-of-the-night with the Cavallotto Barolo Riserva Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe.  But what’s more, the entire Cavallotto lineup was a pleasure to drink (I had my issues with the Riserva Vignolo, but no one else seemed to mind it so much).  What was a let down was the performance from the Monprivato.  Call it backward or say that they never perform well in their youth.  I think we’ve all heard the excuses made for this wine when young and I will be very happy if my bottles mature into something wonderful.  However, at the moment, it comes across as out-of-balance and shows vegetal notes that I don’t find attractive.   The Cavallotto Barolo Riserva Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe was my wine of the flight and the Cavallotto Bricco Boschis was no slouch either.  These are great wines, especially for the money.

2001 Cavallotto Barolo Bricco Boschis – The nose on the Cavallotto Bricco Boschis showed bright cherry, sweet spices, roses and hard candy.  As it sat in the glass an aroma of espagnole joined the bouquet and added masses of complexity.  On the palate, it was juicy and rich yet balanced, showing sweet red fruit mixed with baking spices.  The finish was long and concentrated, showing dark chocolate and black cherry. (92 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2001 Cavallotto Barolo Riserva Vignolo – The nose showed ripe red fruits with minerals, a hint of rust and a sweaty note that detracted greatly from the experience.  On the palate, I found silky sweet cherry, and a dusting of dark chocolate, which turned lean on the mid-palate and stayed through the finish with dried red fruits and rough tannin.  (89 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2001 Cavallotto Barolo Riserva Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe – The nose showed deep, rich red fruits, poppy and menthol with a zesty, almost tropical note of tangerine.   On the palate, it was velvety and rich with sweet, spiced red fruits.  The finish was intense, structured and long. (95 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2001 Giuseppe E Figlio Mascarello Barolo Monprivato – The nose showed dark, almost dank strawberry fruit with minerals and a vegetal note.  On the palate, it came across as round but missing focus with soft red fruits with a vegetal note.  The finish showed dried out fruits and burnt sugar. (88 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

The 2001 lineup.  Served double blind.

Other recent tastings of 2001 Baroli:

2001 Parusso Barolo Bussia – The nose on the ’01 Parusso Bussia was gorgeous, showing ripe cherry, cola, tobacco, potpourri and cedar spice box. On the palate it was rich yet firm, with black raspberry and hints of wood spice. The finish was remarkably long, showing refined structure and a lingering note of pure cherry. (95 points)

2001 Elio Altare Barolo Vigneto Arborina - The Altare Arborina showed a classic Barolo nose of red fruits, plum skins, roses, tar, a hint of animal musk and undergrowth. The nose pulled me in and reminded me somehow of a childhood Autumn day with dried leaves and pine nestles. On the palate, it showed an elegant, full body, backed by a balance of tannin and acid. The fruit was rich but not over-ripe, with sweet spice and an airy, refreshing note of menthol. The finish was long with red fruits, tobacco and a hint of brown sugar. (95 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2001 Elio Grasso Barolo Rüncot - This wine was painfully young, but there was such potential in the glass, and after time in decanter, a glimpse of what it may become shined through. At first, the nose was full on oaky vanilla and even a hint of nail polish, but this faded over the course of three hours, and what remained was dark red fruit, a dusting of brown sugar, and menthol. On the palate, I found an elegant and more feminine structure than expected with lush cherry fruit, herbs and cinnamon. The long finish showed fine silky tannin that left my palate dry but not fatigued. I’m very excited to think what this may be in another ten years. (93 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

Produttori del Barbaresco: What every Nebbiolo lover should know.

The Produttori del Barbaresco is, without a doubt, the largest producer of quality-to-price ratio wines in Piedmont. With access to nine highly esteemed vineyards and a grower’s cooperative that is focused on quality wine production, the Produttori is able to provide a portfolio of Nebbiolo-based wines that can satisfy any palate and fit into any budget. The declassified Nebbiolo ($15 - $17) is one of the best in the region for the price and the Barbaresco normale ($25 - $35) can stand tall against its higher-priced competition in most vintages. For the serious nebbiolofile, the single cru riservas ($40 - $50) are all beautifully unique examples of Barbaresco and capable of aging for decades.


Our tasting group convened at Braeburn Restaurant in the west village to taste through 11 bottles spanning eight vintages of Produttori del Barbaresco. Initially the idea was for bottles from 1990 or older, but after hearing high praise for the recently released 2006 Barbaresco, it was decided to include a bottle for an early peak into its evolution. I will say early on that I’m glad we did because the 2006 was spectacular.

Flight 1 – Old bones, yet beautifully alive. The 1967 will be a wine I’ll remember for a long time.

The 1967 Calvalari de Tartufo Paijé Riserva was everything I wanted from an aged Nebbiolo. In this case, the sediment had been mixed in with the wine, yet it detracted only from its appearance. The aromas coming from the glass were of sweet dried raspberry fruit, a hint of Christmas spice, and tobacco, with a soured cream component and dusty potpourri. On the palate this came across as soft, full-bodied and warming, with tight red fruit verging on cranberry, leather and a hint of mineral-like copper penny. The finish was redolent of sour red fruit. I could drink this wine all night. Another taster, whom I respect highly, noted that it was over the hill. He’s probably right, but I loved it all the same. (93 points)

The 1979 Produttori del Barbaresco Asili Riserva, came across as slightly corked, but you could still sense this wine’s dark, earthy qualities through it all. On the nose, there was a burst of old library books, but with a little more exploration I found green peas, with dark, almost black fruits and topsoil. The palate showed tight with faded cherry and tar, but it gave way to a pleasant sour red fruit finish. I’d love to try another bottle of this wine to see it in all its glory. (Not scoring due to flaws in this bottle)

Flight 2 – The mature vintages – The 1982 showed what perfectly cellared Barbaresco can become with age.

The 1982 Produttori del Barbaresco Montestefano was nearly a showstopper, and it was the first wine that I put to the side for post-dinner exploration. The nose was classic with soft, elegant red cherry, a floral perfume, earth and tobacco. The palate showed a yin yang of fresh acidity and bitterness that kept this wine fresh, yet highly interesting, as red cherry fruit rushed across the palate with a bit of honey and sweet tobacco showing through to the finish. (95 points)

The 1988 Produttori del Barbaresco Trentennio came across as a bit ripe and disjointed. I had trouble deciding if I liked, hated or loved this wine. The palate showed very ripe, yet tannic with a torrent of acidity. The nose came across as big and burly with red and black fruits. On the palate, I found ripe raspberry jam leading to a sour mid-palate performance and a finish of tobacco and ash. (84 points)

Flight 3 – The structured vintage – I’ll admit that I expected more form this wine, but I suppose that’s the problem with preconceived notions. It’s possible that it couldn’t live up to the hype I had expected on this night; it may bloom in a few years, but only time will time.

The 1989 Produttori del Barbaresco Pora Riserva was another star performer, yet it didn’t make it to my top three. All the components are there for this to be a giving, feminine and elegant Barbaresco, but I believe it will take time to show. On the nose I found herbal tea with honey, soil, rose petals and the slightest hint of black pepper. The palate was very balanced showing red fruit and spice with cedar box and cherry tobacco. This wine was very open for the first couple of hours, and then it shut down in the glass. (89 points)

Flight 4 – “It was hard to not make good Nebbiolo in 1990” were the words from one taster’ lips. 1990 is showing to be a truly great year for Produttori del Barbaresco. The last time I tasted through so many vintages, it was the ’85’s that truly stood out as the drinking vintage; but after last night, I’m willing to put the ’90’s high on my list of priorities. If you want high quality, mature Nebbiolo, 1990 is drinking very well.

The 1990 Produttori del Barbaresco Rabaja Riserva was a roller coaster ride of a Barbaresco. Rabaja has always been one of my favorites from the Produttori, and this one did not disappoint. The nose showed elegant, sweet dark fruit with leather strap and fresh-turned soil. The palate showed a great structure with rich red fruit held tight by a tannic grip. This bottle reminds me a bit of the ’90 Conterno Cascina Francia as it comes across with a balanced and dark core of ripe fruit that’s still held tight by its structure. I’d say to buy this wine on sight and then put it away for another five years or possibly more. (95 points)

The 1990 Produttori del Barbaresco Ovello Riserva had an all-star performance this night, and a number of tasters listed it as their wine of the night. This wine came across as all grace and elegance wrapped in a package of soft, sweet fruit. The nose showed aromas of black cherry, red floral notes, hints of molasses and tobacco. The palate showcased the refined structure of a Nebbiolo just coming to maturity, as soft red fruit washed across the tongue followed by clove and bitters. This was all kept in check by a balanced acidity, which left the mouth watering for more. (94 points)

The 1990 Produttori del Barbaresco Rio Sordo Riserva was the least favorite of from all the 1990s. This wine left me feeling as if it never found its place between ripeness or finesse. The nose showed dark fruit with brown sugar, yet it had a freshness to it that was very inviting. On the palate I found red cherry and cedar, but it was a bit muddled and with a tannic finish. Honestly, it may not have been great, but it was still enjoyable. (88 points)

The 1990 Produttori del Barbaresco Moccagatta Riserva showcased another good, but not great, performance with sour red fruits, pepper, licorice and undergrowth on the nose. The palate had a good balance with resolved red fruit, holiday spice and honey. The finish was fresh. (89 points)

Flight 5 – High Praise – The 2000 vintage received such high acclaim from critics when the bottles first hit the market, but now we are watching as these wines battle with issues of balance. Unfortunately, I feel that the 2000 Rabaja is suffering the same fate. It is a big and, at times unruly wine that’s not completely unenjoyable but it’s certainly not my style.

The 2000 Produttori del Barbaresco Rabaja Riserva was big and burly on this evening. It was very ripe but with a lot of structure beneath it all. One thing that kept entering my mind while inhaling the aroma of this wine was spiced ginger cookies. There was red fruit and tar, but it was so dark and hot that I couldn’t get past that almost sickeningly sweet aroma. The palate showed black cherry and licorice with tannins and acidity fighting for superiority. It’s very possible that this wine will calm down one day, but for now, I found it unpalatable. (86 points)

The 2006 Produttori del Barbaresco Normale was fantastic for a young Nebbiolo. It was a textbook example with elegant red fruits, roses and tobacco on the nose. There was black cherry on the palate, as this showed to be very young, yet highly enjoyable, with a fresh balance of acidity and a big tannic shutdown on the finish. I will buy this wine by the case. (92 Points)

Find the 2006 Produttori del Barbaresco Normale on Wine-Searcher.

If nothing else, this tasting served to prove, once again I might add, that the Produttori del Barbaresco is a force to be reckoned with in Piedmont. Cooperative wineries are not usually held in such high esteem, but in this case, it’s the exact opposite. The Produttori delivers such fine examples of Barbaresco, and at such fair prices, that a lover of Nebbiolo would have to be a fool to pass them up.

For now I must sign off… so that I can go buy some for my own cellar.

For another great perspective on this night of wine, check out The Fine Wine Geek