Eccoci: Drinking in The Carbon Footprint

By: Eric Guido

I think by now we've all heard of the carbon footprint. Each and every one of us creates a quantifiable amount of harm to our atmosphere, or planet in general, every day of our lives. We all take, in some way shape or form, and it's through this constant abuse (multiplied by 7 billion people) that our planet is slowly declining into toxicity. It's difficult to see how a single person can make a difference against these staggering numbers. Yet, to do nothing is to simply be another cog in the machine that's polluting us all. It's a pretty grim thought, but the fact is that the idea of a zero carbon footprint is catching on. It's pretty simple really; if you can estimate how much a person or business takes from the earth--then you can estimate how much they can give back in exchange to make up for it.

So what prompted my tree hugging sermon today? Believe it or not, it was a winery: Eccociwine. By now, all of my readers know that I'm a big fan of natural, sustainable, organic and bio-dynamic wines. I'm certainly not someone who would shun any winery for not following these principles, but it is a noble cause--and in my opinion, it shows in the finished product. That's where Eccociwine comes in.

Eccociwine is located in the province of Girona, Spain, about two hours north of Barcelona, at the foot of an inactive volcano and surrounded by a natural park preserve. It's a winery that is built on the principle of restoring an equilibrium with nature while creating wines of inspiring quality and focus. Wines that reflect the land, from soil that has never been treated with chemicals or subjected to industrial abuse. Call it virgin terroir, if you will. From what I've tasted, and considering that the vines were only planted in 2004, there will be great things coming from Eccociwine in the years to come.

At Eccociwine, the grape varieties are French, not Spanish. This was a decision made after completing an analysis of the soils and climate. What's more, the vineyards are planted facing north, in an attempt counteract the change in climate resulting from global warming, as well as the naturally high temperatures in Spain during the summer months. With a mixture of vineyards, some with volcanic and others, alluvial soils, plus a Mediterranean climate with continental influences, the wines at Eccoci are unique, intense, juicy and unquestionably balanced with just enough oak influence to excite the senses.

They are all fruity, yet structured with a soil and mineral core. The tinto premium is sexy and forward, looking for a party. While the Super Premium is dark, mysterious and beautifully backward, it is enjoyable now, but demanding of some time in the cellar to show off its true potential. And as for the Estate White, it’s class in a glass—floral, spicy, soft, yet tense and balanced. This is a winery to watch.

On to the Tasting Notes:

2011 Eccociwine Estate White - The nose showed lemon and lime with sweet white floral tones, spice and moist minerals. It was fresh with weighty textures on the palate and flavors of sweet apple, spice and inner floral notes which lasted into the refreshing finish. (90 points)

2008 Eccociwine Empordà Red Wine Premium Girona - The nose was lush with ripe black cherry, hints of dark wood, black earth, herbs and dark chocolate. It splashed onto the palate with sweet blackberry, juicy yet medium-bodied, showing citrus, apple and mineral tones. This was remarkably fresh and clean throughout while remaining concentrated and intense with a beautiful "drink me" personality. The mouthwatering finish begged me to take another sip. Well done. (91 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2009 Eccociwine Empordà Eccomi Tinto Super Premium Girona - The nose showed intense, savory cherry, a dusting of sweet spice and cocoa with grounding notes of dark earth and minerals. On the palate, it entered firm, yet opened beautifully with masses of concentrated red and black fruits enveloping the senses along with dark chocolate, a note of cherry syrup and black licorice, which lasted throughout the long, dark finish. This was an intense wine, with a refined structure that promises future development. It can easily be enjoyed now but will likely benefit from another year or two in the cellar. (94 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

Pumpkin Risotto: Perfect Autumn Comfort Food

A Recipe & Pairing by: Eric Guido

What is it about pumpkin and how each time I serve it, it makes people swoon? Nostalgia.

Nostalgia is a powerful tool in the chef’s arsenal. It’s a direct line to the hearts and minds of your guests. It's that smell from mama’s kitchen. It's that flavor, which will always remind you of home. Or that memory of togetherness around a family table, the food you ate and the happy memories you shared. Would it surprise you to know that nostalgia is a topic taught in culinary school? Well it is, and for very good reason because with nostalgia you can create a dish that will not only taste divine, but also speaks to the diner’s soul. That’s how pumpkin risotto ended up on my menu.

Pumpkin risotto is an extremely versatile dish that combines sweet earthy flavors with rich, creamy textures and a salty, spicy snap at the end of each bite. The pumpkin adds a weight to the palate that takes this from being just another rice dish to becoming a centerpiece of the meal. It’s warming and speaks to that part of us that loves home cooking, yet it easily translates well into fine dining.

When it comes to a wine pairing, you could go with an earthy Italian white with brisk acidity or a Barbera, but I wanted something a little different and I’m glad I chose the route of exploration. Ever since I first developed this recipe, I've been looking for an opportunity to pair it with a Zinfandel.  Let's just say, I was not disappointed.  The Ridge Paso Robles Zinfandel, accentuated the sweet spice in this dish, while taming the heat from the pumpkin seeds.  Add to that, a slightly firm structure and pop of acidity that cut through the pumpkin stock and rich butter--and you have a match made in heaven.

2010 Ridge Zinfandel Paso Robles - The nose on the 2010 Paso Robles Zinfandel is like a basket of mixed berries baked in a tartlet shell with sweet holiday spices and a hint of mocha. On the palate, it’s fruity and vibrant with intense concentration that is made fresh by brisk acidity. The wine literally coats the entire palate and then slowly melts away to reveal a hint of dry tannin. The finish is fresh, yet long, showing dried red fruits. It’s immediately enjoyable and hard not to keep drinking. (90 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher! (avg. $31)


Pumpkin Risotto (with peas and spicy pumpkin seeds)
Serves 4

5 oz. unsalted butter
1⁄4 tsp. ground cayenne pepper
1 tsp. cinnamon
1/2 tsp. nutmeg
1 quart of chicken stock
1 cup of water
1⁄4 cup white wine
1 shallot (chopped fine)
15 oz. pumpkin puree
1 1/3 cups risotto rice
3/4 cup English peas (can use frozen green peas)
1 cup Parmigiano Reggiano cheese grated fine
3 Tbls. Pumpkin seeds
Salt and pepper
Fresh sage (garnish)

To cook the peas, prepare an ice bath and pour the chicken stock and one cup of water into a pot and bring to a simmer. Pour the peas into the simmering chicken stock and allow them to heat through for four minutes. Then remove them from the pot and place into the ice bath for two minutes before removing them to reserve for later use. Lastly, whisk (10 oz.) of the pumpkin puree into the warm stock and set aside for when you are ready to cook the risotto.

In a sauté pan over a medium-­‐low flame, melt two ounces of butter. Once the butter has melted and come up to temperature, add the pumpkin seeds, cayenne pepper and a hefty pinch of salt. Raise the flame to medium and toss the pumpkin seeds in the butter and pepper mixture. Once the seeds have toasted, pour them into a bowl and keep them in a warm location until ready to use.

When you are ready to make the risotto, place a medium size pan over a medium-­‐ low flame. Add two ounces of butter. Once the butter has melted, add the shallots, a pinch of salt and allow the shallots to sweat. When the shallots have sweated and begun to turn translucent, add the rice and stir to coat the rice in butter (if the mixture looks too dry, you can add a little more butter before adding the rice). Raise the flame to medium and continue to stir vigorously for about one to two minutes. However, do not allow the rice or shallots to take on any color. Add the wine and stir it into the rice until it cooks off. Return the flame to medium-­‐low and add the last half (5 oz.) of pumpkin puree, the cinnamon and nutmeg. Stir to combine completely and add your first ladle full of stock.

At this time, the risotto should take anywhere between 17 and 19 minutes to finish, and throughout that time you should be stirring regularly. After adding the ladle of the stock and pumpkin mixture, stir the rice slowly but regularly. Be careful with heat management with this recipe, because the pumpkin puree can burn if not stirred regularly up from the bottom of the pan. As soon as the first ladle of stock has absorbed or evaporated, add another ladle full. Continue like this for 10 – 12 minutes and add a good pinch of salt to the rice. Add more stock and continue to stir. As you approach 16 minutes of cooking time, taste the rice to test the degree of doneness, all the while continuing with the process of adding stock and stirring. At 17 minutes, add the peas, stir in completely and taste again for doneness.

When the rice is done (al dente), add the Parmigiano Reggiano cheese and the last of the butter. Stir to combine completely and taste for seasoning. Add salt and pepper as needed. (Seasoning is what really brings out the pumpkin flavor in this recipe. Without it, it will seem bland.) If the rice seems too thick, add a little more stock to loosen it up.

Plate the risotto into warmed bowls and top with the toasted pumpkin seeds and a rough chop of sage leaves. Serve.

Morellino: The Drink Me Now Sangiovese

Sangiovese comes in many different forms, the most well--known being Chianti Classico, Vino Nobile, and Brunello. These wines all have a number of things in common and each have their own virtues. Chianti Classico walks the line between tart to ripe fruit and earthy wood tones, with tannins and acidity that usually need a little time to balance out. Vino Nobile adds a dollop of violet floral notes, slightly less acidity and a broader structure. Brunello is all about structure and restrained power, and because of this, requires patience. However, there’s one thing that all of these wines are usually missing, and that is early accessibility. Allow me introduce you to Morellino di Scansano.

Morellino di Scansano fills a niche that was truly missing in the Tuscan lineup of Sangiovese-based wines. The average Morellino (which is the name or synonym for Sangiovese in the Maremma), is a young, ripe and rich Sangiovese with all the accessibility you could ever hope for. It’s not a wine that you have to be afraid of when opening a bottle at a party or for a group of wine neophytes.

What makes Morellino so different has a lot to do with location and aging requirements. The Maremma is located in the coastal hills of southern Tuscany, with a warm Mediterranean climate, which promotes easier ripening. What’s more, the maritime influences regulate the Maremma on hot summer days, so that the ever so important ying yang of warm days and cool nights, which is so important to the production of quality wine grapes, is ever-present.

However, growing perfectly ripe Sangiovese is only one part of the equation; it’s what the winemaker does with those grapes that makes or breaks the final wine, and that’s where Morellino is truly set apart. Without any required aging included in the DOCG regulations, Morellino can go from harvest to fermentation and then release by the March following harvest. This makes for an incredibly pure expression of ripe Sangiovese, which makes up at least 85% of the final blend for any Morellino. The wines are affordable and intended for early consumption, but that’s not to say that these are simple wines. Don’t confuse value and early accessibility with lack of character. In fact it’s quite the opposite, as many of these wines will continue to improve for three to five years in the cellar.

So I ask you to go out and find a bottle of Morellino di Scansano. It may be one of the most enjoyable and affordable Italian reds that you’ve had in a while. To get you started, I’ve included my tasting notes of some of my favorites, which are all available at retail. There is something for everyone.

On to the Wines:

2011 Fattoria Le Pupille (Elisabetta Geppetti) Morellino di Scansano – The nose was fresh with ripe strawberry fruit, hints of dusty spice and violets. A rich meatiness seemed to peak out from the background along with saline minerals. On the palate, it was juicy with black cherry fruit, a hint of citrus and blackberry. It was persistent with an excellent balance of acidity. Dark red fruit lingered on the finish with inner floral tones, leaving a refreshed sensation with a slight tug of tannin on the palate. This is a very enjoyable wine that is highly recommended. (92 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher! (avg. $18)

2011 Poggio Morino Morellino di Scansano – The nose was showy and intense with concentrated red and blue berries, cocoa, dusty spice box, dark wood and minerals. On the palate, masses of ripe dark fruit washed across the senses with a balanced wave of acidity keeping it juicy and fresh. Hints of pepper and spice along with meaty-savory notes and a saline minerality were left in its wake. Dark fruits and black pepper remained on the finish with an unexpected mouthwatering quality. This is an excellent wine where the Syrah component really shines through in a positive way. Well done and a great value. (92 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher! (avg. $16)

2011 La Mozza Morellino di Scansano I Perazzi - The generous and fruity nose showed dusty tart cherry, sweet spice, tobacco, hints of pepper and mountain herbs. On the palate, it was lush and juicy with ripe dark fruit that turned spicy and brighter toward the close. The finish was slightly firm, yet in a very pleasurable manner as it offset the ripe, juicy personality of this wine. (90 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher! (avg. $14)

2010 Mocali Morellino di Scansano – The nose showed sweet cherry and strawberry, with wood spice, dark chocolate, cedar and saw dust. On the palate, it was silky smooth with ripe cherry and currant fruit on a medium bodied, juicy frame. The wine finished fresh, but it was a little short with tart red fruit, yet remained juicy throughout. With its mass appeal and easy-going structure, this would make for a great weeknight sipper. (88 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher! (avg. $14)

2011 Fattoria il Palagio Morellino di Scansano – The nose showed spiced cherry, pomegranate, dark wood tones and a hint of barnyard. On the palate, it was juicy with cherry fruit and rustic, herbal notes. The finish showed hints of tannin, which added character to the otherwise soft, fruity experience. (87 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher! (avg. $16)

2010 Tenute Le Preselle Morellino di Scansano – The nose showed ripe black cherry, minerals, dusty Tuscan spice and herbs with a rustic, yet fun personality. On the palate, it was juicy with soft textures, showing blackberry, cherry and a hint of cedar. The finish was clean and fresh, leaving only a hint of structure behind. This was easy-going and fun to drink, a great bridge wine for someone looking for a youthful introduction to Sangiovese. (86 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher! (avg. $15)