Germany Own-Rooted, Unfiltered & Unstoppable

Talking 120 Years of Wine with Dr. Ulrich Stein 

by: Eric Guido

Dr. Ulli Stein of the Mosel has yet to find a German wine law that he hasn’t been able to work around in some way shape or form, having even gone to the highest courts of Europe to do so.  That’s not to say that his crusade is based on a desire to simply break the rules, but instead that his insights on winemaking, terroir, and the raw ingredients needed to make great wine go against almost one hundred years of misconceptions.

Although the wines of Ulli Stein still fall into the category of the esoteric here in the States, throughout Europe he is considered a visionary.  Not only that, but a man who is willing to go to war over his beliefs, and in doing so, improve the entire region. 

If I had to generalize about the wines of Ulli Stein, the first thing that would come to mind is the word “unexpected”, as they don’t follow the rules, much like the man who makes them, and they surprise you at every turn.  As I put my nose to a glass of Red Light, Stein’s entry-level Pinot Noir (Spatburgunder in Germany), I was amazed by the purity of fruit and precision that was backed by layers of earth and floral tones.  To think that it is a wine that would sell for $32-$35 amazed me, but that was before Ulli had explained his past with red varietals in the Mosel.

Bringing Red Wine Back To The Mosel

As he explained it, long before the current regime of German wine laws, it was decided in Nazi-controlled Germany that wine production would be focused exclusively on Riesling, simply because it was the variety that generated the most revenue.  They went as far as forbidding the planting of red grapes, making it illegal to do so.  These rules went unchanged for over 50 years.  Fast forward to the 1980s, when a young Ulli Stein began to question the laws and inquire with authorities to seek permission to plant Pinot Noir.  He was met with opposition and a warning that to do so would be illegal.  Unwilling to settle for this answer, in the mid-eighties  Ulli began to plant Pinot Noir within his holdings, making him one of the first producers and the owner of some of the oldest vines for red wine within the Mosel today.   In the late nineties, the rules were changed to permit red varieties, and by that time Ulli had already established himself as a producer of Pinot Noir, Cabernet and Merlot.  Today, many more winemakers are working with Pinot Noir in Germany, and the future for the variety looks very bright, especially to me, after tasting the 2015 Stein Spatburgunder Trocken Waechter, a wine made from Pinot Noir planted in blue slate soils as far back as 1987.

Making The Case for Own-Rooted Vines 

However, as renowned as Ulli Stein is for his work with red wine (in a region known mostly for its Riesling), what first drew me to the producer is the work that he does with some of the oldest own-rooted vines in all of Germany.  His Himmelreich (heaven) and Hölle (hell) vineyards are both planted to ungrafted vines that date back 65-70 years, and in one section, named Alfer Hölle, he is even able to source fruit from vines planted in 1900.

I was surprised to find out that there are between 50-60 hectares of ungrafted vines in all of Germany, about half of them planted between 1910 and 1935.  From that total of own-rooted Riesling, Ulli tends four hectares, a significant percentage. Being well aware of the effects of the Phylloxera epidemic during the late 1800s, I was quite surprised by this.  However, while most of the world was forced to quickly adapt to Phylloxera by replanting their vineyards on American rootstocks, in Germany it took significantly longer for the root louse to begin attacking their vines.  Much of this was the result of their climate, but also the soils that consist mostly of slate.  Even to this day, it’s only in areas where topsoil exists over these stoney soils that Phylloxera can attack German vines.

So what effect does an old, own-rooted vine have of its fruit and the resulting wine?  According to Ulli, old vines produce less fruit (naturally lower yields) but also less sugar (resulting in lower alcohol) and more production of extracts and aromatic compounds.  What this means is a wine that is naturally fruit-concentrated yet balanced and with the potential to have more depth both on the nose and the palate.  Older vines are also more resistant to disease and fungus, due to their thicker-skinned grapes.  

To this day, Ulli continues to plant ungrafted vines, even though it remains forbidden by German wine laws.  For him, there’s no worry that these vines will continue to thrive, free of Phylloxera.

The The High Courts of The EU 

Then there is Strichween, or what, by tradition going back hundreds of years, one would call Straw Wine.  Being a lover of both Italian and German wines, I was amazed when Ulli explained to me that the method of making Straw Wine was very much like the production of Amarone, as perfectly ripe grapes would be picked and placed on straw mats to dry and raisinate for a period of time, before being crushed and made into wine.  

His interest in Straw Wine brought Ulli back to the authorities once again, only to find out that although the name and wine held a strong foundation in German tradition, no one was permitted to use the name or process in the production of wine for sale.  This news sent Ulli to the courts in a battle that brought him all the way to the highest courts of the EU, after which he received permission to produce his wine.  Yet even after the battle was won, he was not permitted to use the actual name “Straw Wine”, and so he made up his own from a local dialect, and Strichween was born. 

So there we have it, as Ulli Stein continues to make some of the most highly sought-after, yet locally under-the-radar wine in Germany’s Mosel.  He’s doing it from some of the steepest terraces you can imagine (one at a 70% incline), from forgotten vineyards that contain vines that were planted over a century ago.  He’s a true believer in the quality of fruit over ripeness, and the work and creativity that goes into making wine being as important as the terroir itself.  I doubt he’ll ever stop challenging the system, and I wouldn’t want him any other way, because the man, the wines, and the story paint a complete picture that is Stein.

On to the Tasting Notes

Stein Rose 2017 - The 2017 Rose is wonderfully fresh, showing strawberry with sweet florals, dusty stone and hints of undergrowth.  It's a soft and juicy expression with zesty acidity adding depth to its red berry and sweet mineral tones.  It finishes just as it started, wonderfully fresh and full of lively red fruits. (89 points)

Stein Pinot Noir Red Light 2016 - The 2016 Red Light is an incredible fresh and zesty expression of Pinot fruit with ripe strawberry giving way to sweet spices, herbs and a hint of white pepper.  Here I'm finding soft yet energetic textures with bright cherry fruit, inner florals and lively acidity.  The finish iss medium-long and very pretty, displaying hints of fresh red berries, minerals and inner floral tones.  Frankly, this glass was hard to put down, and I can imagine enjoying it slightly chilled through the warm days ahead. (90 points)

Stein Pinot Noir Trocken Waechter 2015 - The 2015 Spatburgunder Trocken Waechter is intense with dark peppery red fruits, hints of animal musk and spicy florals on the nose.  Soft and incredibly rich textures are balanced by brisk acids and usher in flavors of ripe cherry, plum and inner florals that reminded me of the color purple.  It has spunk and energetic, giving way to a long and zesty finish that lingers on savory herbal tones. Talk about making the case for Pinot Noir in Germany. (92 points)

Stein Cabernet Merlot Trocken 2015 - The 2015 Stein Cabernet / Merlot Trocken shows its cool-climate origins in the best possible way, opening with a display of exotic spice, white pepper, chalk dust and savory mountain herbs.  On the palate, soft textures are offset by zesty red and blackberry fruit with saturating minerality on a wiry and tense frame.  This finishes long and grippy with crushed wild berries and youthful tannin tugging at the senses. (90 points)

Stein St. Aldegunder Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett Trocken 2016 - The 2016 St. Aldegunder Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett Trocken is lively and seductive with ripe grapefruit up front backed by crushed stone and a zest of lime.  Here I'm finding soft textures with zesty acidity, as notes of green apple, young mango, sweet minerals and wet stone wash across the senses.  The finish is medium-long and precise, making the mouth water while resonating on mineral-infused citrus tones. (92 points)

Stein Riesling Blauschiefer Trocken 2016 - The 2016 Riesling Blauschiefer Trocken is intense with ripe peach, mango and apple, as notes of honeysuckle and dusty minerals added depth.  It's soft, almost oily textures are grounded by saturating mineral and spice, as notes of green apple combined with zesty acidity to create a truly energetic experience.  It tapers off long and satisfying, as green apple combines with zesty minerals offset by lingering brisk acidity. (93 points) This is from fruit coming mostly from Himmelreich at an average 65 year-old vines.

Stein St. Aldegunder Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett Feinherb 2016 - The 2016 St. Aldegunder Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett Feinherb opens with a layered bouquet, showing young peach and hints of green melon, followed by wild herbs and savory crushed stone. It's a soft and savory expression with a mix of green apple, saline-minerals and lime-infused herbal tones.  The finish is medium-long and salty with a twang sour citrus and hints of spice. (92 points) This hails from 75-80 year-old ungrafted vines.

Stein St. Aldegunder Palmberg-Terrassen Riesling Extreme Trocken 2014 - The The 2014 St. Aldegunder Palmberg-Terrassen Riesling Extreme Trocken shows fresh apple with hints of undergrowth, crushed stone and floral tones, and seems to gain richness and berth the longer it sats in the glass. This is incredibly soft on the palate, with notes of ripe apple, pear and hints of lime.  Zesty pineapple and citrus-tinged minerals define the long and penetrating finish.  It’s an incredibly tense wine at this time and aching for time in the cellar, yet packed with potential. (92 points) The "Extreme" is from 90-100 year-old ungrafted vines planted in blue and grey slate soils within a walled vineyard at a 70% incline.

Stein Riesling "Ohne" 2014 - The 2014 Riesling "Ohne" shows a mix of dried florals, peach and apricot with masses of minerality and hints of smoke.  It's weighty and textural yet also perfectly balanced, as notes of dried apricot and citrus rind seemed to coat all of the senses, only to be washed clean by zesty acids and minerals.  The finish is remarkably long, showing fresh sliced yellow apple, minerals and crushed white flowers. The Ohne is a very unique wine, allowed to undergo multiple fermentations and not treated with any sulfur. (90 points)

Stein Riesling Striehween 2011 - The 2011 Riesling Striehween was a first for me, as I’m sure it is for many, as it’s a category that belongs to Stein.  This is produced much like an Amarone, through painstaking processes.  Here I'm finding a striking and layered display of dried peaches, apricot, sweet melon, honeysuckle and stone dust.  On the palate, it's silky and full-bodied, washing across the senses, lifted by balanced acidity, with notes of ripe peach, apple and honeydew offset by a zing of orange zest.  The finish seems to go on and on, yet it is uplifting and fresher than you would imagine, showing sweet florals and hints of kiwi. (93 points)

Germany’s Nail-Biter Vintage: 2016

2016 German Riesling Review

By Eric Guido

Better Late Than Never

In the past, I’ve shared my insights on Germany’s newest vintage releases in the late spring or summer, as I would wrap up my tastings of wines that were brought over by producers to taste with the media and industry, but something about the 2016’s gave me pause.  As I tasted the wines, I couldn’t help but feel that they hadn’t quite reached the point that anyone should be tasting them.  They were like unruly teenagers, with all of the anxiety, self-conscious mood-swings, and over compensation when in the spotlight.  Most of the wines seemed disjointed and some even seemed hollow.  Many of the wines from my favorite producers left me feeling unsatisfied--which is what really gave me pause.  

I made the decision that I needed to taste these wines again, when they had more time in bottle to settle and get their footing, so to speak.  In the end, I’m glad I waited, because what I’m tasting now has me smiling from ear to ear.

What to Expect from 2016 German Riesling

The 2016s are in many cases very immediate wines with rich textures and an acidic spine that takes a back seat compared to vintages like ‘14 and ‘15. Yet these are wonderfully balanced wines and so hard to resist already, and for those who love minerality--there’s plenty to spare.

The 2016 vintage in Germany was a nail-biter for winemakers. The season started with a warmer-than-average winter that accelerated budbreak, and was followed by spring frost through much of the country and even into Austria. Flowering was late and yields looked to be down, but this didn’t deter growers from remaining positive. It wasn’t until the rains came--and didn’t stop until into July--that most producers realized that there may be reason for worry. Then came the heat, which started out as humid, causing bacterial infections and rot in the bunches. The humidity left, but the heat did not, as it remained throughout August. Growers who worked the vineyards, trimmed bad fruit and sprayed survived through these conditions, but some vineyards lost their entire crop.

Then September came and with it the only weather that could save such a vintage--warm dry days and cool nights. The well-manicured vineyards were able to recover health, yet yields were down by up to 30% across the region. Growers suddenly went from biting their nails to realizing that they could harvest at their leisure. Mother Nature had saved the day, but it would remain a small vintage with wines that spoke more of a winemaker's prowess than anything else.

Where To Look and What to Buy

For my tastes, I’ve found the most pleasure in the feinherb style of Riesling--those with just enough residual sugar to balance out the intense acidity and minerality. These wines are already drinking beautifully.  A good example is Peter Lauer’s Senior, as my household has gone through six bottles, yet I only have one tasting note, because the wine is so easy to love that it just disappears before I can pick up a pen.

As for the dry wines (Trocken) and Grosses Gewächs, it’s apparent that these are in need of some time to truly stretch out and begin drinking well.  My experience with the Julian Haart Wintricher Ohligsberg was a testament to that, as the wine was so tense that it nearly sizzled on the senses.  I would place these in the mid-term aging department, with five years in the cellar as my best guess to when they’ll start to really show off.

Then there are the Pradikat wines, Kabinett, Spatlese and Auslese.  From my tastings the category of Kabinett shows beautifully in this vintage with amazing delicacy and sweet fruit flavors, which, when balanced with heightened minerality, (think Weiser-Künstler Wolfer Sonnenlay) creates a stunning display.  It’s also worth mentioning that this specific wine has an alcohol level of only 7.5%, yet it’s impeccably balanced.  

In my opinion, It would be a huge mistake to pass on the 2016s.  Not only are so many of them drinking amazingly well already, but many of them also have very bright futures ahead of them.  Frankly, I can’t wait for my next taste.  Below are some of my favorites to date.

On to the tasting notes:

Peter Lauer Ayler Kupp Stirn Fass 15 Feinherb 2016 - The nose was mineral-driven and intense with crushed limestone giving way to ripe peach, granny smith apple and fresh green herbs. On the palate it was medium-bodied and soft, backed but vibrant acidity which was nearly hidden beneath notes of ripe mango, lime and a spritz of penetrating, sweet, vibrant minerality. It finished on tart citrus tones and zesty acid with caking stone dust minerals on the senses. Very nice. (93 points)

Julian Haart Wintricher Ohligsberg Riesling Großes Gewächs 2016 - The nose was intense with crushed limestone, wild herbs, tart lime citrus, and spicy floral tones. On the palate, I found soft textures, yet with understated tension, as saline minerality, lime citrus and zesty acidity barreled their way across the senses. It finished long and tart with lime citrus and inner floral tones. (93 points)

Weingut Keller Riesling Westhofen -KR- 2016 - Of all of the '16s I've tried to date, this is the most tightly wound and in need of serious time to come around. Here I found an austere, almost Burgundian bouquet of white pit fruits, wild herbs, (I swear there's a hint of vanilla), almond skins and grapefruit. On the palate, it was focused like a saber, precise and intense with a tart apple, pineapple, lime and a mineral mix. The finish was long with saturating minerality, green citrus tones and cheek-puckering acidity. I'm not sure where this is going, but I can't wait to find out. (93 points) 

Weiser-Künstler Enkircher Steffensberg Riesling 2016 - The nose was almost savory in it's display of floral undergrowth, saline-minerality, rosemary and lime zest, as notes of honeysuckle and ripe apple came forward with time in the glass. On the palate, I found a zesty expression, yet ultimately with soft textures, showing salty citrus, wild herbs, green apple and wonderfully balanced acidity. It finished on saturating minerality, with ripe apple and an almost oily texture coating on the senses. (92 points)

Weingut Keller Riesling von der Fels 2016 - The '16 Von der Fels was gorgeous, with an almost savory bouquet, displaying provencal herbs up front, followed by notes of green apple, lemon, and crushed seashell. On the palate, I found weighty textures, yet nearly imperceptible; the result of a mix of intense tart citrus, zippy acidity and saline-minerality with a spring of lemon zest and savory herbs that revisited toward the close. The finish was fresh with a lasting buzz of mineral-strewn citrus and minerals. The longer this wine sat in the glass, the more it seemed to grow. (92 points)

Peter Lauer Ayler Riesling Senior Faß 6 2016 - Here I found wonderful inner florals, with savory spice and lemon tones. It displayed great density for the vintage with rich textures offset by saline-minerality, ripe apple and zesty acidity. The finish was long with gorgeous inner floral tones and hints of citrus. (92 points)

Schäfer-Fröhlich Riesling Vulkangestein trocken 2016 - The nose was intense, savory, almost briny, yet so pleasurable, as notes of olive, seafoam and crushed stone were offset by green apple, melon and fresh herbs.  On the palate, I found soft textures contrasted by stunning minerality and a zing of vibrant acidity with notes of tart apple, lemon rind and spice.  It seemed to buzz of the finish, as zesty acidity lingering among citrus tinged minerals. (91 points)

Weiser-Künstler Riesling Wolfer Sonnenlay Kabinett 2016 - The bouquet alone is making me hungry with a savory, saline and mineral burst, followed by lemon rind, crushed seashells and yellow flowers. On the palate, I found a zesty expression of tart acid and lemon-lime intensity mixed with ripe apple and spices. It lingered long on the finish, with a tart mineral-driven display as saturating citrus tones slowly faded. (91 points)

Julian Haart Piesporter Schubertslay Riesling Kabinett 2016 - The nose showed intense minerality with crushed stone, lime, and sweet florals. On the palate, I found soft textures with peach, apple and hints of lemon, sweet inner florals and refreshing acidity. It finished clean with lasting ripe peach and hints of citrus rind. (91 points)

Weingut Keller Riesling Limestone 2016 - The nose showed intense lemon citrus with masses of crushed stone minerality, hints of mango, and savory herbs. On the palate, I found soft, weighty textures with a coating ripe lemon and green apple acidity that saturated the senses, forcing the mouth to water. It finished on cheek-puckering minerality, inner florals and citrus pith, yet through it all a note of ripe green apple resonated. This is so good that it’s almost impossible to put down. (91 points)

Dönnhoff Roxheimer Höllenpfad Riesling trocken 2016 - The nose showed sweet florals, young peach, and a hint of lime. On the palate, I found soft textures with ripe lime citrus, minerals and exotic tropical tones. I wanted more energy in the finish, yet that’s splitting hairs and the Hollenpfad is highly enjoyable for current drinking. (90 points)

Gunderloch Riesling Rothenberg Spatlese 2016 - The nose was wonderfully floral with airy minerals, hints of citrus and kiwi.  On the palate, I found silky textures lifted by stunning acidity with notes of ripe apple and mango.  It finished long with a sweet and sour display of stone fruit and tropical tones, all the while providing a sensation of energy and verve.  Very nice. (92 points)

Schäfer-Fröhlich Riesling Felseneck Spätlese 2016 - The Felseneck Spatlese was gorgeous, with a display of crushed stone minerals with ripe apple, and sweet citrus tones.  On the palate, I found a weighty-silky textures offset by vibrant acidity mixed with intense minerals and hints of green herbs before a mix of ripe pear, apple and peach washed over the senses.  It finished long, layered and complex showing amazing balance and lingering acids.  This is one for the cellar, and a standout of the vintage. (93 points)

Schloss Lieser Riesling Brauneberger Juffer Kabinett 2016 - The nose was incredibly fresh with minerals and notes of post-fermentation funk in the foreground, followed by dried flowers and ripe peaches. On the palate, I found soft textures with sweet and sour apple, floral peach and hints of spice.  It finished long with notes of ripe apple, contrasted by a sour-patch lemony sensation of acid and sweetness.  It’s more of a fun wine that a showstopper and really packs a punch. (90 points)

Schloss Lieser Riesling Graacher Himmelreich Kabinett 2016 - The nose was intense with a display of minerals, crushed stone and dried flowers up front, ripe apple and peach tones followed shortly after.  On the palate, I found great textural depth with gobs of minerality to offset, leading to peach and tropical fruits with inner floral tones providing lift.  It finished long and textural, as it’s ripe fruits seemed to slowly melt away from the senses.  This is a Kabinett?  I’d think more Spatlese--but I’m loving it all the same.  (92 points)

Schloss Lieser Riesling Niederberg Helden Spätlese 2016 - The nose showed crushed stone minerality with with dusty florals and ripe peaches. On the palate I found silky textures with notes ripe peach, a zing of brisk acidity, lemony citrus, and nectarine.  The finish was incredibly long with a hint of spiced orange and ripe stone fruits.  (92 points)

Schloss Lieser Riesling Niederberg Helden Auslese 2016 - The nose was remarkably fresh and feminine, displaying sweet florals, peach and more peach with sweet cream.  On the palate, I found silky textures with green apple, tropical citrus and caking minerality.  The mix of minerals and acid gave this an almost dry sensation going into the long finish, where saturating citrus and tart apple tones prevailed. (93 points)

* Originally published at The Cellar Table Blog

Germany Is Due for a Great Vintage: Welcome 2015

Is 2015 the Next Great German Vintage?  

By Eric Guido

If you love Classic German riesling, then hold onto your seat, because 2015 in Germany is easily the best young vintage that I have ever tasted.  I say that without any doubt in my mind.  I say it as a fan of Riesling who has been tasting and working to understand the region for many years now. I say it feeling confident that 20 years from now, you’ll be remembering the moment you decided to go deep on 2015s, and you will smile from ear to year. 

However, before you go out and buy all of your favorite Grosses Gewächs and Trocken-style wines, heed my one warning; 2015 German Riesling is all about the classic Prädikat-styled wines.  In other words, wines with residual sugar.  We aren’t talking about “sweet” wines (however those are off the charts as well); what we’re talking about are the styles of Feinherb, Kabbinet and Spatlese.  These are wines that carry varying degrees of residual sugar, but it’s a sweetness that you often don’t perceive, because the acidity and fruit concentration of the wine balances everything out to a tee.  That is the magic of the 2015 vintage.

This is not to say that there aren’t any amazing Grosses Gewächs from the vintage, yet what was apparent to many of the best producers was that the best way to use their perfect fruit was to allow the natural ripeness and purity of the vintage to shine through.  

The ripeness and balance of 2015 came developed from a series of events that unfolded throughout the year and blessed the majority of the northern regions.  The Mosel, Rheinhessen, Rheingau and the Nahe were all treated to a perfect natural blend of climatic conditions.  This started with an extremely dry and warm summer, which excelled the ripening and prompted the berries to develop thicker skins.  Just when growers started to worry that the vintage would suffer from heat and hydric stress, rain came and temperatures regulated.  In the south, this made for an earlier vintage, but in the cooler regions, producers held on and were treated to a harvest season of unheralded perfection.  

Instead of worrying about when to pick or avoiding inclement weather, they were treated to five weeks of an Indian summer, which was propelled even further as the nighttime temperatures turned cool and dry.  And so, through the month of October, growers were able to pick at leisure as the heat of the day and cool, brisk evenings created perfect physiological ripeness in the grapes and aided in keeping botrytis in check.  The results were fruit of outstanding depth, perfect ripeness and bright, brisk acidity.

Speaking of acidity, this was both the blessing and the curse of the vintage.  Producers who waited, achieved deep, concentrated berries, and they found balance in the vintage’s high acid.  However, those who did not, or who picked early to create a drier-styled wine, were subject to a level of acid that I can best describe as “searing”.  In fact, in tasting for this article, there were moments that my gums burned as I worked through certain portfolios.  What’s worse is that some producers decided to deacidify, which created wines of round textures and fruit that lacks the verve of the vintage.

But enough about the producers that failed.  Let’s talk about the majority of the wines and the producers who succeeded in every sense of the word.

What really makes this vintage shine is balance and concentration.  When reading through many of my notes, I found it amazing how often I used the words rich, savory and sweet herbs, as these are not often descriptions I find myself adding to a Riesling tasting note.  However, in 2015, many of the Prädikat wines show these exact virtues.  It’s amazing as I tasted so many of the Kabinetts and found them to be utterly spellbinding.  It was difficult when making buying decisions, because I have so many fond memories of the wines in this range.  As for the Spatlese, they are so young, yet so perfectly compact and balanced.  In many cases, these are 30 - 40 year wines that a young collector could build an entire cellar on.  The exact same can be said for the Auslese category, many of which may be immortal. 

Take the perfectly ripe and pure fruit of the vintage.  Add the depth created by the warm days and cool nights of the harvest. Then factor in the intense, vibrant acidity, and what you get are some of the most exciting wines that Germany (in my life) has ever produced.

I hope you agree and join me in going deep on 2015 Riesling.

On to my tasting notes:

Von Winning Kirchenstück Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2015 - As expected from von Winning, the 2015 Kirchenstuck showed intense minerality on the nose, with a saline or marine quality, along with young mango and pear.  On the palate, I found a wonderfully fresh expression with soft textures to contrast its saturating minerality and hints of tropical fruits.  It finished remarkably long and floral, yet tense.  It’s still holding much back, but the concentration here is intense, and the acidity is in perfect balance. Put it in the cellar. (94 points)

Dönnhoff Felsenberg Riesling Grosses Gewächs "Felsenturmchen" 2015 - (limited notes) The nose was rich and deeply layered with intense minerality and young stone fruits.  On the palate, it was fresh and well-balanced, yet a twang of acidity seared the mid through the close.  It finished mouthwatering and spicy. (91 points)

Dönnhoff Hermannshöhle Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2015 - The nose was gorgeous with intense floral perfumes, fresh sliced apple, and hints of undergrowth.  On the palate, I found zesty minerality with green apple acidity, and pure and precise notes of apricot, pear and inner floral tones.  A coating of tantalizing minerals saturated the senses throughout the finish. This is gorgeous. (93 points)

Dönnhoff Kreuznacher Krotenpfuhl Riesling Kabinett 2015 - It was holding back on the nose, showing only hints of its future self, as notes of young peach and hints of spice mingled in the glass.  However, on the palate, I found juicy, ripe stone fruits accentuated by zest acidity and minerals.  It finished long yet fresh, as its ripe fruits backed down and revealed floral tones and spiced green apple. This is beautiful. (94+ points)

Dönnhoff Oberhäuser Leistenberg Riesling Kabinett 2015 - (limited notes) Showing a mix of ripe stone and yellow tropical fruits with silky textures excited by bright acidity, leaving a coating of minerals and notions of fresh green apple. (91 points)

Dönnhoff Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Riesling Spätlese 2015 - The ‘15 Hermannshohle Spat was off the charts, with a bouquet of spiced florals, sweet sliced apple, crushed stone and hints of fresh ginger.  On the palate, it was layered and intense yet still lifted with saturating notes of lemon curd, spiced apple, minerals and electrifying acidity.  It finished fresh and long with lingering notes of citrus and minerals.  This wine has decades of development ahead of it. (96 points)

Dönnhoff Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Riesling Auslese "Goldkapsel" 2015 - (limited notes) The nose was floral with sweet tropical fruits.  On the palate, I found a mix of silky textures, zesty acidity, sweet citrus and saline-minerality.  The finish was palate-staining and long, but also wonderfully fresh. (93 points)

Schneider Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Riesling Trocken "Magnus" 2015 - The nose was rich, almost savory, saline and intense.  On the palate, tart apple and a rush of intense minerals were overly accentuated by searing acidity.  It coated the palate with minerals throughout the finish and forced the mouth to water. I’m not sure when this wine will find its balance, but on this day, it was almost painful. (89 - 92 points)

Schlossgut Diel Riesling Feinherb ‘Von der Nahe’ 2015 - Here I was treated to a bouquet of ripe apple, sweet herbs and floral tones.  On the palate, concentrated layers of citrus and tart stone fruits were offset by a soft wave of balancing ripeness.  It was mouthwatering and intense throughout the finish with a zesty buzz of acidity through the close. (91 points)

Schlossgut Diel Dorsheimer Goldloch Riesling Kabinett 2015 - The Dorsheimer Goldloch Kabinett showed intense minerality on the nose, more expected from a GG than a Kabi, with fresh floral and lemon zest.  On the palate, I found vibrant textures with pure ripe citrus fruit.  The details haven’t fleshed out here yet, but the purity is simply stunning.  The finish was long and fresh with zippy acidity that prompted me to take another sip. (92 points)

Schlossgut Diel Pittermannchen Riesling Spatlese 2015 - The nose displayed a mix of sweet florals and herbal tones with hints of mango and ripe pear.  On the palate, I found a refreshing mix of ripe stone fruits, coating minerality and citrus zest.  It was long and caressing to the senses with layers of ripe stone fruits on the finish. (92 points)

Spreitzer Oestricher Lenchen Riesling Spatlese ‘303’ 2015 - On the nose, the ‘303’ is still holding back; yet on the palate, it went off like a bomb.  Here I found intense sweet lemon and tropical notes offset by scintillating acidity which reinforced its tropical layers and coax the senses to water.  This lasted throughout the long finish, adding mineral and sweet herbal tones. (92 points)

Spreitzer Winkeler Jesuitengarten Riesling Spätlese 2015 - The nose was rich and floral with notes of ripe apple, minerals and floral undergrowth.  On the palate, I found zesty acidity with notes of ripe tropical fruit and minerals in a very balanced and alluring expression.  It finished long with saturating tropical fruits offset by zesty citrus tones. (94 points) 

Künstler Hochheimer Kirchenstuck Riesling Kabinett Trocken 2015 - Künstler really delivered the goods on the Hochheimer Kirchenstuck, as an exotic and almost-savory bouquet of spicy florals was given added depth with hints of caraway and fresh apple.   On the palate, it was remarkably soft-textured on entry but then cleansing through vibrant acidity.  Inner floral tones prevailed, as its fruit seemed to take a back seat.  However, I’m not worried here, as there’s so much going on, which is still not at the surface. (92 points)

Künstler Hochheimer Domdechaney Riesling Trocken 2015 - The nose was so layered and  fresh, smelling like Spring, with a mix of floral tones, herbs and young peach.  On the palate, I found tart lemon and inner floral tones with tantalizing green apple acidity.  It finished long, lifted, floral and mouthwatering. Definitely among the top Trockens I’ve tasted from 2015.  (92 points)

Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett Halbtrocken - The nose was fresh and lifted with minerals up front, followed by notes of ripe pear and floral undergrowth.  On the palate, I found silky textures contrasted by mouthwatering acidity which excited the senses and brought notes of sweet citrus and inner floral tones to life. The finish was long with lingering notes of ripe apple and lemon.  For the money, you cannot go wrong here. (92 points)

Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese feinherb Ur Alte Reben 2015 - The nose was rich and deeply pitched with ripe stone fruits and spicy floral tones.  On the palate, I found silky textures with tart apple, lemon and mineral thrust.  It washed across the senses like a veil, with a shot of energy in the mid, then finishing long, long, long, laden with minerals. (94 points)

Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese* 2015 - According to Johannes Selbach, this fruit was technically Auslese level in ripeness, and from the depth in the glass, you can certainly feel it.  Here I found a deep and rich mineral-laden perfume, showing dried flowers, ripe apple, mango and hints of lemon curd. On the palate, I found silky, broad textures, which soothed the senses while a wave of acidity forced the mouth to water, releasing notes of spiced citrus and tropical fruits.  The finish was long with notes of sweetened lemon and apple, then fading to become spicy and floral. (95 points)

Selbach-Oster Graacher Domprobst Riesling Auslese 2015 - In 2015, I believe the Domprobst Auslese may be Selbach’s best sweet wine in 2015.  The nose was intense with layers of crushed stone, tart citrus, and tropical fruits.  It seemed to coat the entire palate in silky textures until a wash of minerals and acidity refreshed the senses, leaving flavors of spiced apple, mango and sweet inner floral tones.  It finished on tension and seemed to go on for well over a minute. Sweet, but not, and built for the cellar.  (96 points)

Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling "Rotlay" 2015 - The nose was fresh and fruity with sweet floral tones.  On the palate, I found silky textures displaying ripe mango, apple and lemon, before turning floral tones and spice.  The finish was long with palate-coating tropical fruits, yet wonderfully fresh at the same times.  This wine is so perfectly balanced.  (94 points)

A.J. Adam Spätburgunder Rose Trocken 2015 - The nose was gorgeous with fresh ripe strawberry fruit giving way to sweet floral tones, along with hints of musk and undergrowth. It was vibrant on the palate, silky yet fresh, displaying ripe cherry, melon and sweet herbs.  It finished fresh and long on hints of strawberry and apple.  This is so pure, focused and perfectly balanced that it keeps you coming back to the glass for me.  Well done! (92 points)

A.J. Adam Riesling Trocken 2015 - This displayed a darker and richer Riesling profile with ripe apple and hints of spice.  On the palate, it was intense, as tart apple and citrus were kept juicy by brisk acidity, morphing into inner floral tones over time.  It finished remarkably fresh and long with a lasting impression of tart citrus and minerals. (91 points)

A.J. Adam Hofberg Riesling (GG) Trocken 2015 - The nose was slightly restrained, yet it was all there below the surface, as yellow floral tones mingled with tart apple and wet stone.  On the palate, it showed remarkable intensity, as notes of concentrated green apple, grapefruit and minerals saturated the senses, yet it was kept vibrant and clean by cleansing acidity.  The finish displayed a deep well of stone fruits, a coating of minerals, and lingering notes of dried flowers. Gorgeous. (95 points)

Weingut Adam & Haart Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Riesling trocken 2015 - The nose was restrained, showing only light floral tones, stone fruits and a whiff of minerals.  On the palate, it came to life with rich yet vibrant textures, as tart apple, sour citrus and minerals soaked the senses, providing contrasts to the wine’s weight.  It finished long on saturating tart fruits and a buzz of brisk acidity. (92 points)

A.J. Adam Im Pfarrgarten Riesling Feinherb 2015 - The nose showed crushed stone up front, followed by an abundance of ripe stone fruit and wet slate.  On the palate, I found a perfect balance of silky textures and tantalizing acidity, along with citrus, sweet herbs, and closing on inner floral tones.  The finish was juicy, vivid and long; as in my notes, the single word “Wow” is scribed at the finale. (93 points)

A.J. Adam Dhron Hofberg Riesling Feinherb "In der Sängerei" 2015 - The nose was rich and spicy with ripe citrus, flowers and sweet herbs.  On the palate, I found silky textures that filled the senses before contrasting notes of green apple and tart citrus joined the fray.  The finish was long with cheek-puckering intensity, yet not severe in any way, as it was simply balanced with sweet citrus and minerals.  I love this layered wine, and it was one of the highlights of my 2015 tastings. (94 - 95 points)

A.J. Adam Dhron "Has'chen" Riesling Kabinett 2015 - The nose was deep and rich, however restrained, with only hints of wild herbs and minerals.  On the palate, I found ripe apple and melon with hints of savory spice, which seemed to coat the senses in their concentration.  It finished fresh on ripe apple and mouthwatering acidity. (92 points)

A.J. Adam Dhron Hofberg Riesling Spätlese 2015 - The nose was youthfully restrained.  On the palate, I found full-bodied textures lifted by brisk acidity.  The fruit was tropical and ripe but kept in check by stunning minerality.  The long finish lent a buzz of mouthwatering acidity which provided freshness.  It was very nice but painfully young, and I doubt my score will do it justice years down the road. (90 - 92 points)

A.J. Adam Dhron Hofberg Riesling Auslese 2015 - The nose showed ripe apple and pear.  On the palate, I found luscious textures, yet lifted and fresh, with notes of mango, orange peel and ripe apricot.  It finished long on sweet florals and hints of spice.  This wine requires time to find itself, as I have no doubt that it will grow into something much more than it is today. (94 - 96 points)

Schloss Lieser (spontaneous fermentation)

Schloss Lieser Helden Riesling Spatlese Trocken 2015 (7.5 grams) - The nose showed tart citrus with intense minerals, floral tones and musky undergrowth.  On the palate, wow, concentrated yet silky with intense rich citrus contrasted by a coating of minerals and spice.  The finish was long and spicy with tart citrus and an almost-smoky quality. (92 points)

Schloss Lieser Riesling Estate 2015 (20 grams) - The nose was fresh, showing young mango, apricot, lemon zest and minerals.  On the palate, I found soft, almost creamy textures, mixing lemon with ripe apple and zest acidity. It turned tart, then made the mouth water throughout the finish. (90 points)

Schloss Lieser Estate Riesling Kabinett 2015 - The nose showed crushed stone minerality with hints of ripe pear.  On the palate, I found soft textures, almost creamy, with sweet citrus, apple and perfectly balanced acidity. The finish was long, almost floral, with lingering hints of tart citrus. (91 points)

Schloss Lieser Riesling Kabinett Brauneberger Juffer 2015 - The nose showed ripe pear, and spice, then turned mineral with sweet florals.  On the palate, I found soft textures giving way to ripe apple, pear, and rich lemon curd; but through it all, there was great energy and tension.  The finish coated the palate with sweet apple and inner floral tones. (92 points)

Schloss Lieser Riesling Kabinett Wehlener Sonnenuhr 2015 - The bouquet was intense and almost savory, with floral perfumes, spice, fresh ginger, and wet stone minerality.  On the palate, it was perfectly balanced, silky and ripe yet contrasted with green apple acidity and coating minerals, then turned to inner florals.  The finish was ridiculously long on ripe apple and sweet citrus with a slight buzz of acidity. It’s a mind-bending wine.  (94 points)

Schloss Lieser Niederberg Helden Riesling Spätlese 2015 - The nose was deep and rich, showing crushed stone minerality with floral tones, lime, and sweet herbs.  On the palate, it was silky, coating the senses with sweet textures lifted by stunning bright fruits, including floral peach, ripe pear, ginger and citrus.  The finish seemed to go on and on, slowly tapering off over time with lingering hints of minerals and lemon. (93 points) 

Keller Riesling Limestone 2015 - The nose showed a bright mix of a ripe spiced apple with wet stone minerality and zesty lemon. On the palate, I found vibrant, soft textures, leading with succulent ripe apple and then turning tart with intense minerality and inner florals.  Granny Smith tartness lingered long, long, long on the mid-palate, along with saturating minerals, all while remnants of zesty acidity forced the mouth to water. (91 points)

* Article was originally published at The Cellar Table Blog

My Sweet Spot: Trocken & Feinherb

An all-time favorite Riesling pairing:
Tagliatelle in Truffle Cream Sauce

I believe I have finally found my German Riesling sweet spot, and that is within the amazing styles of Trocken and Feinherb. It’s been quite a journey, arriving at this decision, and many thanks go to a couple of friends who put some amazing wines in front of me. I’m not saying that I haven’t loved and lusted after a number of Spätlese and Auslese level wines. However, it’s the racy style of a good Trocken and the almost impossible balance found in Feinherb that sings to my soul.

If you’re not already familiar with these terms, just started getting into Riesling, or have given up on Riesling because you think they are all just sweet wines, then let me give you a little background. First and foremost, you may be surprised to learn that the preferred style of Riesling in Germany these days are of bone-dry wines. Many of the sweet and incredibly ripe Rieslings you see on store shelves are being produced for our benefit. If sweet wine isn’t your thing, then you owe it to yourself to find a Trocken (Dry) Riesling. Trocken is a bone-dry style of Riesling that’s crisp and fresh with precise and focused fruit and minerals. They can be achingly enjoyable, as the acid seems to almost sear your gums, but then coaxes your taste buds to water, releasing an intense wave of fruit. The experience is one like you may have never before witnessed in your wine-drinking life. For me, finding a wine that produces this effect is truly thrilling—as was my recent experience with the 2011 Keller Nierstein Riesling Trocken.

Then there is Feinherb, a relatively new term in German wine, which could be compared to the designation Halbtrocken (half-dry). However, what Feinherb is all about is finding a perfect balance. The fruit is intense with all the minerals and acid that I love in Riesling. Yet, there’s also a small dose of balancing sweetness which give these wines a truly jubilant feel. They are not sweet, they are not dry—what they are is perfectly balanced. In many cases, like with the 2012 Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese Feinherb Ur Alte Reben, the intensity in the glass is simply incredible, and you can feel the weight of the riper fruit on your palate, but it stays within the lines and never bubbles over. Instead, it’s a wine that’s teetering on the edge, and it’s on that edge where I find the most enjoyment.

I beg you to seek out these wines. You owe it to yourself, especially if you’ve given up on (or never even started) tasting German Riesling. Admittedly, some of these will not be easy to find—but that can be part of the fun.  My advise would be to seek out the Selbach-Oster or Spreitzer, and go from there.  Enjoy!

On to the wines:

2011 Stein St. Aldegunder Palmberg-Terrassen Riesling Spätlese feinherb - Aromas jumped from the glass of this young Riesling, showing ripe pear, peach skins, wet mineral laden stone and hints of lemon. On the palate, there was a yin yang of fruit, acidity and minerality. Grapefruit was foremost with an equal doses of acidity as expected from taking a bite, note the sprinkle of sugar on top. Ripe peach flavor and weight added balance, along with gorgeous saline minerals, which poured out as the mouth began to water. The finish made the cheeks pucker with slight lemon pith, hints of fresh honeycomb and inner floral notes. To say i enjoyed this wine would be an understatement. (92 points) Producer Website! (German Only)

2011 Weingut Keller Nierstein Riesling Trocken - An intense and pulsating wine with power and verve. On the nose it was highly expressive with peach and apricot fruit, lemon oil, minty herbal tones, and wet stone. It showed razor-like focus on the palate, like a bullet train, yet then suddenly blossomed into an explosion of tart orange and tangerine. The finish lingered long as the mouth began to water and lemon pith flavors turned to mineral stone. It's a beautiful wine. (93 points) Producer Website! (German Only)

2012 Weingut Spreitzer Oestricher Lenchen Rosengarten Riesling Großes Gewächs - The nose was enticing, showing intense spiced-apple with lemon accents, sweet yellow floral tones and moist minerals in a focused, yet fruit forward expression. The more time it spent in the glass, the more its fruit seemed to ripen and I found it difficult to pull myself away. On the palate, I found green apple, grapefruit, lime and wet stone, with sharp acidity contrasted by silky textures. Notes of bitter citrus peel seemed to coat the entire palate through the long finish along with herbal hints. (93 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2012 Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese feinherb Ur Alte Reben - A beautiful and truly seductive Riesling, the 2012 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr “Ur” Alte Reben explodes from the glass with aromas of ripe pear, yellow flowers, roasted walnut, saline minerals, and hints of brie. On the palate, it’s silky yet fresh with sweet and sour tropical fruit, lemon pith, slate and a hint if green olive. Lemon zest lingered long on the finish, as the mouth watered, slowly melting away the oily textures revealing a note of pineapple left behind. (94 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2010 Van Volxem Scharzhofberger Riesling - The nose showed ripe peach, grapefruit, sweet spice, wax, and yellow florals in an airy yet gorgeously ripe expression. On the palate it played a sweet and sour act with grapefruit, grapefruit and more grapefruit, mineral stone and lemon pith with rich textures balanced by piercing acidity. The finish seemed to create a vacuum of flavor, which suddenly exploded into a rush of tropical fruits, spice and sweet inner floral notes. In a word, WOW! (94 points) Producer Website!

Article and Tasting Notes by: Eric Guido

I Don’t Drink Enough Riesling

I’m not going to get into the history or roots of Riesling. Nor will I start to explain terroir and the differences between Germany, Austria and Upstate New York. And don’t look for a tirade arguing the virtues of the Nahe versus the Mosel. Hell, I won’t even talk about vintages. Why? It’s simply because all the information is out there and easy to find, even in the pages of this blog. No, today I want to talk about why I love Riesling, how I am constantly reminded of the fact that I simply don’t buy or drink enough of it, and why you should be doing the same.

Let’s start with my roots, a red wine drinker to the core. When the weather got warm outside and most people turned to white wine—I just lowered the thermostat on my air conditioner. If you had a salad and needed to pair a wine with it, I’d pull an acid-driven, high-altitude Italian red. I had never met poultry that didn’t taste good with a Pinot, and I don’t need to even start on how good Zinfandel goes with barbeque.

My tasting note may have been short
but it was love at first sight.

But something happened a few years ago that changed everything. It was a bottle of 1994 Gunther Steinmetz Mulheimer Sonnenlay Spatlese Riesling (try to say that ten times fast). During an evening of excellent red wines, someone placed a 15-year-old (at the time) bottle of Riesling Spatlese into the mix, and my world was turned upside down. I actually remember staring at the glass, bewildered and wondering what it was which I had before me. First it was the nose—deep, intense, fruity and earthy with a hint of blue cheese funk. It put me back in my seat and forced me to take notice. Yet it was what I found on the palate which sealed the deal—here was a white wine with all the power and presence of a red, with a balance of ripeness and acidity that sizzled on the taste buds. In the end, it was the best wine of the evening, and that was against some very serious competition.

This set me on a path to understanding Riesling better. The next week I found myself at Crush Wine filling up two mixed cases. What truly amazed me were all the different styles—there’s literally a Riesling for every situation. They start with bone dry, and they go through every degree of sweetness imaginable. You can find a simple quaffing wine for $15 or an intensely-detailed thinking wine for $30. Wait, did I just say $30? Yes I did. That’s the best part; and I’m not saying that you can’t go broke falling in love with Riesling, but what I am saying is that there are many more affordable bottles that are worth you consideration than not.

This brings me to what prompted today’s ode to Riesling—yet another tasting that proved to me that Riesling belongs in a prominent place of my cellar. I sometimes fall victim to forgetfulness and need to be reminded. Or what often happens is that I simply end up drinking my stock of Riesling so fast that I forget to replenish it.

So I beg of you, do yourself a favor and explore this amazing variety. Below I’ve included some recent notes--most of these are hard to find--but they are all worth the hunt.   In the end, I have no doubt that you will thank me down the road.

On to The Notes:

2009 Van Volxem Wiltinger Braunfels Riesling - The nose was tight and took some coaxing to truly show its qualities, yet with time notes of peach skin, tart lemon and hints of green stem came forward.  On the palate, it showed great intensity, bitter citrus, tropical mango with a fresh, food friendly acidity.  A note of floral tea leaves and lemon lingered on the finish.  This wine should continue to develop for years and I'm really interested to see where it will end up.  For now--enjoy it with food.  (90 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2008 Markus Molitor Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett - A very interesting, value Riesling that really packs a punch. The nose showed ripe lemon, sour cream with hints of banana and ripe brea. On the palate, it showed great energy and ripeness with a mix of tropical fruits, ripe peach and roasted nuts--yet mouthwatering. The finish pulled things together nicely, as the wine's acidity sizzled across the senses. (90 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher! 

2001 Von Schubert Maximin Grünhauser Abtsberg Riesling Spätlese - The nose was beautifully finessed with masses of depth, showing dried figs, lemon skin, floral peach, almond and hints of petrol. On the palate, it was seamlessly ripe yet juicy with a dollop of brisk granny smith acidity and a bitter twang. The finish went on and on, remaining biter yet rich and satisfying. It was the Yin Yang of a wine that kept me guessing at every sniff and indulging in every sip. Very Nice. (94 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2001 Weingut Robert Weil Kiedricher Gräfenberg Riesling Spätlese - The nose was focused and refined yet ripe and fruit forward with white berry, mango, almond cake and a spritz of lime. On the palate, it showed great intensity and richness, like a fresh lemon curd with a slight sour and creamy note, yet offset by balanced acidity and a hint of cranberry, resulting in a cheek-puckering experience. The finish lingered on with center-focused spiced pineapple and peach skins. This is a beautiful wine with years of great drinking to come. (95 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2010 Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling 'Rotlay' - The nose was insanely beautiful, showing sweet spices and floral notes, lemon curd, ripe peach with hints orange and green grass. On the palate, it was all about perfectly balanced intensity. The weight and sweetness of this wine is at first perceptible, but then is swept away by a burst of green apple acidity, leaving a slightly oily texture with tropical fruit and citrus notes, which seem to last for over a minute throughout the finish. This is a sweet wine, balancing it's girth as if on the point of a needle, swinging this way and that--yet never tipping over. Love it. (94 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!